Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, just installed a blitz bov into my 32 today. got it second hand off someone and it came with the pipe.

i had a plate to block off the standard bov made up yesterday, its bolted on and sealed to stop any leaking where the stock bov was. i have taken a vacuum line to the top of the blitz bov which is mounted down near the air filter. and the pipe that was plumbing back the stock bov is sealed tight.

issue im having is that now when i drive the car, its hesitating and farting around up at 4500rpm. its doin the same as when the boost is too high. feels like its not gettin enough fuel or the spark plugs are f**ked or something.

i've triple checked everything i've done and everything is tight so i dunno whats goin on.

any help would be awesome....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292434-r32-playing-up-after-bov-installed/
Share on other sites

  Turbz RB-25 said:
Coil packs mate, get one of your mate's coil packs and chuck em on your car, 99% of the time its the coil packs.

sweet as mate thanks, i will swap the coil packs n put new spark plugs in on my next day off, i'll also fill it up with some new fuel coz the car has been sitting for about a week so maybe fuel is going stale. i'll run some injector cleaner thru it as well and see how that goes.

bov is also really quite for some reason but might just been the spring being too hard for boost. i adjusted it so it was as loose as it would go so might organise a new spring for it. im only running like 8 pound thru it...

Put the factory BOV back on first.

If the problem is still there, then continue investigations. Until you do this however, anything else (like the below), is pointless.

  Turbz RB-25 said:
Coil packs mate, get one of your mate's coil packs and chuck em on your car, 99% of the time its the coil packs.

He has only changed the BOV, and the issues start immediately after it.

And then that suddenly makes it coilpacks with a 99% chance?

The spring tension is there to adjust how fast your BOV closes after it vents. The vaccum hose on the top is what keeps it closed under boost. This could be your problem right off the bat. If you have it at it's weakest setting like you say you do then your BOV won't be closing fast enough or maybe not at all (until you stab the throttle which will cause it to snap shut. Adjust your spring tension to be firmer and see how you go. The Blitz valve is pretty loud if you have the trumpet on it but otherwise I've been told it's average. Mine had the trumpet but seriously consider either stock, GTR or after market recirc valve as the rich running, idle issues and wank factor of teh pshht noise of a poorly setup atmo BOV are not as ideal as teh recirc valve that does the same thing (legally) as any other BOV without the loud noise.

But yeah I seriously doubt it's your coilpacks or anything evn remotely to do with your ignition system. This has air leak written all over it.

  static said:
hey guys, just installed a blitz bov into my 32 today. got it second hand off someone and it came with the pipe.

i had a plate to block off the standard bov made up yesterday, its bolted on and sealed to stop any leaking where the stock bov was. i have taken a vacuum line to the top of the blitz bov which is mounted down near the air filter. and the pipe that was plumbing back the stock bov is sealed tight.

issue im having is that now when i drive the car, its hesitating and farting around up at 4500rpm. its doin the same as when the boost is too high. feels like its not gettin enough fuel or the spark plugs are f**ked or something.

i've triple checked everything i've done and everything is tight so i dunno whats goin on.

any help would be awesome....

BOV is most likely shagged.

which one is it? if it is the old style one (one mounted to pipe in pic) bin it as they are all 15-20 years old. I have NEVER found a good one of the early types.

post-34927-1255944805.jpg

post-34927-1255944816.jpg

there are 3 springs for the blitz bov, and you're prob. only hearing the sound from your pod filter if its whooshing... open the blow off valve and check wat colour spring it is...the old school blitz bov are the best if you're looking for something very loud ive got one on my car...when pulled apart u can cut off a couple of coils to reduce tension, also clean it and oil it up with some sewing machine oil and its sweet...to check what spring you have go on blitz website and identify colour with one you have and it states what psi to spring rate you have... good luck...any issues get a ss drive blitz bov and pm me, can show u how to modify it to be as loud as the older style blitz ones...

Just run your stock one vented to atmosphere if you want some more noise, the stock ones sound alright plumbed back with a pod even. The one you just installed probably is possibly faulty or its not getting a proper vac signal, I'd run the vac line from the manifold not the air filter as the pressure isn't going to be the same there. The closer to the throttle body the vac line is the better. Why not just extend the vac line the stock bov uses ? Will rule that out as an issue

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It’ll be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...