Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just need help on troubleshooting the problem or explain to me what's going on lol. recently installed a hks evc 5, everything seems to be installed accordingly, just one problem is that i'm receiving a reading saying that the car boosting while the it's on neutral. usually gives out 54kpa otherwise 7psi on 7000rpm, i know it's not meant to be boosting on neutral, i've checked the connections everything seems alright. Need help.

-thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292807-boosting-on-neutral/
Share on other sites

shit !!!

who revs their own cars to 7000rpm in neutral ??

save that shit for your rental cars mate

lol was just testing something cause at mid range rpm evc stated that it boosted 10kpa so just reved it some more just to clarify whether what the evc has shown was true or not. first time seeing it boost in neutral as well bit puzzled.

Never done it myself as I've always heard it was very cruel to the engine but why exactly is it worse to rev to say 7,000rpm in neutral as opposed to in gear?

I understand when in gear and on the move the engine is under load but why is it worse in neutral when there is minimal load?

its not worse. hitting 7000rpm in say 2nd or 3rd puts shitloads more load on the motor than hitting 7000 in neutral, aslong as the car is running fine (not too lean or too much timing up there, good oil etc) then what you did isnt gonna hurt it

its not worse. hitting 7000rpm in say 2nd or 3rd puts shitloads more load on the motor than hitting 7000 in neutral, aslong as the car is running fine (not too lean or too much timing up there, good oil etc) then what you did isnt gonna hurt it

That's the difference, an engine in neutral with a huge quick rev up to 7000RPM is more damaging if oil pressure isn't quick enough.

On the street, motor is loaded, doesn't rev up as quickly, the oil pressure "lag" is barely noticeable...

But a very quick free rev, it can be quite noticeable depending on how quickly the motor revs out of gear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...