Jump to content
SAU Community

Eoi On 4.375 Ratio Diff Gears For Skylines

Strik3r
 Share

Recommended Posts

Strik3r Experienced

Strik3r

Posted
Posted

So after my hunting around for gts4 diffs to transplant the crown wheel and pinion from into the GTR diffs, I found that these items are becoming harder and harder (AND more expensive) to come by. Particularly seeing as you have to buy the entire GTS4 rear diff and front sump and diff just to get the crown wheel and pinion out of both of them (nobody actually wants the viscous gts4 diff).

I was originally going to Cryotreat my CWP's to make sure they were up to the task, but after talking to a friend who has access to a CNC machine, we discussed the possibility of digitizing the crown wheel and pinion from the front and rear diffs out of a gts4 (4.375 ratio) and having a engineer produce replacement CWP's for people wanting taller diff ratio's. To the best of my knowledge, these diffs would suit 32's, 33's and 34's (rwd cars could just use the rear diff, while GTR's/Stagea's would use the front and rear). Another big advantage would be that the new CWP's would be constructed out of stronger materials, effectively upgrading the strength of the diff.

I'm no expert on any of this, but can possibly relay any questions that people might have. At the moment, i'm just trying to find out if there is enough interest to have this done. We will be able to set it up as a group buy and it should work out very cost effective. I havent done any number crunching, but to defray the cost of the cnc'ing and digitizing over the produced CWP's, i'm guestimating we'll need around 10 people in the group buy to make the process worthwhile. The more people we have, the cheaper it becomes. If i get enough interest in this thread, i'll have a chat to my friend and work out how much each CWP will cost.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

I would be interested, price dependent of course.

It is not just that they are hard to source, it is also the fact they these gears may be 19 y.o. and done 100,000km or more.

Strik3r Experienced

Strik3r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so I talked with my contact about the crown wheel and pinions and after some research, he told me that his machine isn't specific enough for the job. We were referred to Albins Off Road gear - www.albinsgear.com.au who do a lot of work for the v8 supercars and rally cars. They basically said that it isn't going to be a cheap exercise unless we are talking about resonably high volume stuff.

The ball park figures we were quoted were $5000 for a 1 off CWP, and around $10000 if we got 5 CWP's. Presumably, it would continue to scale up, but at best guess we would need to be ordering something like 20 or 30 units before the per-unit cost got down to what I would consider reasonable levels (<$1000 per unit). I would have investigated further, but these sort of figures require more responsibility and co-ordination than I am willing to undertake at this point in time. If someone wants to continue to investigate this and organize a large-scale group buy, then I would be interested, but I'm not willing to take it on myself.

Thanks for the interest, and if someone wants to organize it, feel free to contact albins yourself.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Probably better off sending it to someone who is more suited to runs of 1-10 sets of parts instead of a company who wants (or needs) at least 30+ to make it at all viable as their machine time is worth a lot more.

Thanks for the effort!

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
  Strik3r said:
Albins Off Road gear - www.albinsgear.com.au

$2000 for an end if there's an order of 10, so rear plus front = $4000 each person

Or $5000 for one end on a one off order.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
  N1GTR said:
$2000 for an end if there's an order of 10, so rear plus front = $4000 each person

Or $5000 for one end on a one off order.

Out of interested what material? Any heat treatment after?

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
  bigmikespec said:
Out of interested what material? Any heat treatment after?

Something flash. Shot peened plus a magnitude of other treatments all included in the price.

  N1GTR said:
Unsure of material, yeah heat treatment included.

The guy i spoke to was a Steve, he said the parts from them would be stronger than the OEM parts for sure

Yeh Steve is the guy i spoke with aswell.

They also do gearsets. Dog arrangement with forks, shafts etc between 8-9k. They list a synchro on their site but i didnt get a price on them.

Axles and shafts they can do aswell, again didnt get price.

33gtst Proficient

33gtst

Posted
Posted
  aDrew_C said:
Can I ask why people wan't a shorter ratio? I've got 4.375:1 right now and find it a bit too snappy and violent for an rb25.

same here,well may be not snappy and violent(cause mine is welded) but I have one in my 33 and really really hate it. Instead of using 3rd I now have to rely on 4th more for everyday street driving, and my 4th is a little bit special. Cant wait to get the diff out. LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...