Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As topic states

took the time to change my coil packs today (car is r33 s2 rb25de with turbo conversion etc etc)

first off I took out old coil packs and inspected them - they have no cracks or marks on them and were in great condition - I know my plugs are gapped to something but that shouldn't be a problem for the time being. Anyway new coil packs didn't line up with the holes to screw them in the top 2 holes line up but the bottom one never did, so I screwed them in using the top 2 holes nice and tight. Plugged everything up and put everything back together and started her up.

It started first go only the car was shaking like a b!tch (gear stick shaking quite alot and like being inside a vibrator lol) so I thought I'll give it a run around the block to see what's going on. Around the block I go and she hesitated to get on boost and wasn't running well at home - pissed me off changing these things in rb25s is back breaking work. Anyhow un did everything and put the Nissan coils back in, everything returns to normal - no hesitation no shaking.

Any mechanical gurus here care to help identify what the problem may be?

I see, ordered series 2 coil packs though and that's what it said on the box looks exactly the same - unless my car had a different engine put in in japan... Hmmm

well I've got another set delivered already so I'll try that if not I guess I'll be trying series 1 coil packs

A 'de' RB25 may not take the same coils or have the same loom as a 'det', the spark needed for forced induction has to be stronger otherwise it gets blown out.

Do your originals look like the aftermarket ones? Do they have the same shape and size?

And if the mounting holes don't line up properly [as you stated] then I'd say that is a dead giveaway, I have a SII and installed splitfires and the mounting holes lined up exactly, no bodgy fit up required.

Ontop of the valley cover there's no igniter module (rectangular box) there is a connector plug on there though which is hooked up to wires I dunno what for and screwed into the valley cover using a piece of metal which is stopping it from moving around. The holes line up 98% just slightly out enough so 3 of them can't be screwed properly while 3 can be (I assumed because of china) - they are yellow jackets (paul I believe his name is) has been great and has really gone out of his way to help me on this and I do believe they are a great product from all results I've seen.

Anyhow it is a 1996 series 2 so all I did was follow what was on their website....

Will try series 1 coils after I send these 2 sets of series 2 ones back and will also take pic for you guys of the rear of valley cover tomorrow

If you have no igniter module, and the car is a 96, and the coils look exactly the same, then you definitely have the series 2 engine.

Also, series 1 coils have the black mounting plate all the way around the coil whereas the series 2 doesnt, only on the ends.

These mounting plates look the same as the factory coils.

I had to learn this when I purchased some Yellow Jackets for my Series 1 about a year ago :)

Heres some pics where you can see the differences:

Series 2

post-60258-1256127683_thumb.jpg

Series 1

post-60258-1256128000_thumb.jpg

Dude, it just sounds like to me for some reason one or coil packs aren't firing. When you consider you just swapped coil packs, you probably just didn't get one clipped on correctly, broke a part of the coil pack harness, or didn't get that ground at the back properly seated. Also maybe a couple of the coil packs are dead, but I doubt it.

I double checked all the clips it could be a dead coil pack anyhow when I spoke to Paul he made me go through and check each coil pack and from the looks of it they were fine. As people have said could be me needing series 1 coil packs because life started as N/A

The coil packs are the same for the turbo'd & NA models. They are interchangeable and can be used in the R34 GTR.

Same situation with the Series 1 coils which can also be used in the RB20DE(T) and the R32/R33 GTR.

Edited by d_liberate

I haven't taken pics yet but the rocker covers (and the wire I'm talking about) are exactly the same as whiteprincess diy on rocker cover gaskets - the little connector plug you can see in the 3rd or 4th pic

Have a quick look at the inside if the plug on the loom on all of the plugs.

I somehow managed to bend two pins on mine a few weeks back. Plug wouldnt clip shut, and i thought id broken the plastic clip. So proceeded to buy another loom to replace it and when i went to do it, i had a close look with a torch (the garage my car is in is dark hence missing it at the start) and found two were bent. Straightened them with a key and away it went.

But when they were bent and the plug wasnt clipping shut it was like you described. Got me moist.

LOL...i see but if the pins were bent once i put the original nissan ones back in it would do the same vibration thingy, but it didnt so it worked fine, anyhow i will install the new set tomorrow sometime and see how it goes...

Nah if it went away when you put the Nissan ones back in then theres a problem with the packs.

You could also try having the aftermarket ones installed, then swap them out one a time with the Nissan one until it runs smooth. Then you've found the problematic pack.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...