Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, Im currently having my engine rebuilt by a highly regarded engine builder in Melbourne, Im not going for anything over the top, but rather detuning the car due to disappointments and failures from the past builder and tuner, I have all the good bits, N1 block, CP pistons, Tomei oil pump, H beams etc, Im starting off with a brand new crank using Nismo Bearings, I was using a Tomei head gasket in the past but to my supprise he has recomended a standard head gasket instead, he is tolerances mad when it comes to engine building and feels the Tomei may hinder this process for various reasons, I will be running about 18 psi and not the previous 25 psi, I have since learnt he has built 1000hp rb26 engines with good relierbility using the standed head gasket, Im not doubting his ability but I am a bit supprised by his choice, any comments?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292914-head-gaskets-for-rb26/
Share on other sites

nothing wrong with the stock H/G and i wouldn't be too concerned about him using it. I bet i can even guess who is building it.

on a side note ive seen results from pressure testing various brands of rb head gasket and the more expensive ones actually performed the worst.

Stock gasket is just fine, and my prefered gasket period. I remember a time not to long ago when people were saying if you went "above 1.2 bar of boost, you'll blow out your stock gasket". Morons.

I know of 3 stock headgasket'ed 500hp+ RB's back in Okinawa.

B.D a bit busy at the time so S.G around the corner has put up with me, they seem like brothers, just look different.

Jesus was busy so you went to God himself...hehe.

nice one. You are in good hands.

No, and I wouldn't re-use an after market metal one either, but some people do it with success. But to reiterate, the stock one can NOT be re-used.

Cheers, I didn't think so. Now if only I could remember what I paid for it heh

Jesus was busy so you went to God himself...hehe.

nice one. You are in good hands.

Thanks for your comments on head gaskets, other one gave me a laugh too :P , Ive had a couple of engines built with poor results so maybe a bit of joy this time with :devil: God himself . P.S, I dont know why Im talking in code.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
×
×
  • Create New...