Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay ive got a Sony deck with alpine midranges (200w)50rms) and Pioneer 6x9 200w with a two 12'' rockford fosqate subs.What sort of amp am i looking at here.I want to run the subs above 50 rms each so say max 150rms each what brand and power do i look for.Santa might buy it for me (girlfriend and I) xmas money.would a kicker 600w do the job safely ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29296-does-sizebrand-matter/
Share on other sites

well can't argue with u there strutto :cheers: ... anyways to answer ur question simply ... yes it does matter .. both power and size :( ... and yes brand does matter ... imho i'd go for a well known brand ... i mean i'd ask people who knows what look at then i'd compare them myself ... since reputation counts ... dont' go buying 600watt amp just cause it says 600 ... the quality stuff are usually rated lower and will go much higher ... but kicker is a decent brand ... u shouldnt go too wrong there ... personally i've got all jl and alpine in my car ... looks and sounds great :D

how much do u have to spend? If i were u, i'd want to wire the 2 12's in parallel, so they run at 2ohms instead of 4ohms, that way you can decrease the impedence on ur amp, and run more power into them.

a monoblock or a 2 channel amp would be perfect for this. You could easily put 200rms per sub this way from most amps provided that they are 2ohm stable.

Whats your budget?

how much do u have to spend? If i were u, i'd want to wire the 2 12's in parallel, so they run at 2ohms instead of 4ohms, that way you can decrease the impedence on ur amp, and run more power into them.  

a monoblock or a 2 channel amp would be perfect for this.  You could easily put 200rms per sub this way from most amps provided that they are 2ohm stable.

Whats your budget?

budget is about $400 - $650 for a new amp.Should i even worry bout looking for a 2nd hand amp like a v12 etc or bad option.

if you want decent clarity, get two amps. one for the subs and one for the splits.

Size definately matters......but I wouldnt waste my money on some "name brand" shite either.

check out the Jaycar Response range. it's pretty bloody good for the price. Kicker performance on a BOSS budget.

boh!

Dont count out 2nd hand amps.

ppl who sell amps this price normalyl know what theyre talking about and r into car audio and take care of their equiptment very well.

I was in ur situation 2 months ago, I bought an audison LRx.400 2nd hand for $500. It runs 650rms at 2ohms, and 900rms at 1ohm.

Monoblocks r designed for subs, and theyre ment for driving very low loads, so u'll probably get most bang for ur buck there.

The alpine's r good too, mrd-500 is very nice. that can be hand for around $500 probably less with some haggling 2nd hand. Theyre 500rms at 2ohms. If u get a monoblock, u should run at 2ohms with ur setup, i assume ur subs are SVC 4ohms.

Cadence have a great selection of monoblocks too but im not really a big fan of them. PG's are in ur price range aswell, but i'd personally go the alpine v12's over them, many will argue with that im sure...

If u go 2 channels, i'd go an audison srx2s from www.webaudiodirect.com

its 600rms when bridged to 1 channel at 4ohms. thats 300rms per sub, its around $540 i think.

PGs are also a good choice again.. the vnet's are also good for the price they offer, the 2x100 is bridged to around 300rms i think at 4ohms, (not too sure on that) but theyre not 2ohm stable when bridged so u'll have to run them at 4ohms.

Definetly get 1 amp for subs, and 1 for splits, the loads and power requirements on the amps for those different drivers are very different, and it makes sense to have components specialising for those needs.

Bottom line, if it were my money, i'd go the audison srx2s (:600rms = 300rms per sub.. much better than what u were expecting to run!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
×
×
  • Create New...