Jump to content
SAU Community

Hi Octane's 830hp R34 With 2860 -5's ?

LedZepLen

By LedZepLen,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

LedZepLen Collaborator

LedZepLen

Posted
Posted

My new magazine is featuring Hi Octanes r34 with a rb2630 and they claim that this car is producing 830hp and running gt2860 -5's . Is this possible with these turboes or is that power all in the compression and head?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292993-hi-octanes-830hp-r34-with-2860-5s/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Yes it's possible.

Yes it's been done before.

Im not sure if that figure would be on PULP though, likely the jungle juice :)

440rwkw has been done on pump 98 octane more than once now through -5's. So add in better fuel and so on, no reason you can't make more than that again.

Its the overall package that gets it there. Not one specific thing.

Big money, big development, big results.

D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted (edited)

That obviously isn't standard -5's though, the compressor map shows that 830WHP (415per turbo) is so far off the compressor map it's not funny. And then when you take into account the fact that the general rule for HP per Lb's/Min is BHP not WHP and it moves you even further off the map.

That is unless they are doing a lot better than the 100BHP per 10 Lb's/min general rule for power.

Having said that it is only a general rule and with the amount of work that has gone into that thing I'm sure it could break a few laws of physics as well.

707160-5comp_e.jpg

Edited by D_Stirls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Vee37
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Vee37 · Posted

      I currently have a 2008 370GT Coupe, with the big brakes (Akebeno if I'm correct), and Its coming time to get new pads. Previously, I had a 2003 350GT Coupe with the stock sized brakes, not Brembos. I had custom wheels on it that were pretty open to the brakes, and when I first put the wheels on it, the rims where completely coated with brake dust. A few years after adding the new rims, I needed to change to pads on that car. I didn't do any research, but I told the mechanic of the problem with the brake dust. I also told him I didn't track the car or even drive around the streets harshley. But the dust was an issue. The mechanics changed the pads to a different compound, and the dust was GONE! The other change I noted was that when coming to a complete stop, instead of having to press harder on the pedal as I approached 0kph, I had to actually lift off a little to not come to a hard jerky stop.( My unfounded explanation is they became stickier as they heated by stopping ) Since I got my 370gt with big brakes, I noticed that that as I came closer to stopping, I had to press harder and harder to reach a full stop. I am not talking about hard, just harder. I brought the car in from another state, so when I had a blue slip done, I asked the mechanic what he thought of the brakes, and he thought they were brilliant. The only negative of these pads on the 350GT, was that they squealed when cold. So driving out of a shopping center carpark, it was a little embarrassing, as the brakes squealed, and I am sure people thought that I needed new brakes, when they were actually fresh. I have no idea of what type of compound they were on the 350gt, but whatever it was, I want to get the exact same on my 370GT. They weren't ridiculously expensive, and were replaced at the local JAX (which is no longer open), so I am certain they would be a pretty common big brand, off the shelf type/brand. My current mechanic suggested I need top get the rear pads changed soonish, but he suggested standard Brembo pads. Which I expect to behave the same as the current ones and not like the ones on the 350GT.  I don't think dust will be an issue on the 370GT. With the behaviour I describe above on the 360GT, does anyone have a suggestion of pad material that will act like the change I had done on the 350GT?
    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The consult isn't even OBD1. It's a Nissan Consult. Proprietary.   Re read everything I've said. I specifically say, put down the laptop/tablet. Understand, and review the issue first. Logging voltages is the same as logging the converted value. Things like O2 that you say to log, is unusable for this, whether it be the voltage, or the value the ECU thinks.   The fact you don't know how to diagnose without looking at the computer, is exactly what I've said multiple times is the issue for why techs these days can't diagnose the fun issues with cars.
    • joshuaho96
      R33 gtst gearbox top barb

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Breather for it. If it's anything like the GTRs it should run up to the top of a bellhousing bolt.
    • joshuaho96
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      What basics? With these OBD1 ECUs it's not like the ECU will give you any real clues, it's not really doing any sanity checking of sensors/sensor data. My experience is actually a lot of sensors tend to be the source of the issue first and foremost, and checking everything gives you a direction to investigate. MAF/O2/STFT/LTFT should all kind of make sense. You can try little tricks of the trade like tapping the MAFs to see if it triggers a stumble, things like that. But once you've done a compression test knowing whether you have an air leak or fuel delivery problem is kind of hard to narrow down without sensor data. And you don't really know if all your sensors are making sense unless you can interrogate the ECU directly about what it's seeing for sensor data.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 gtst gearbox top barb

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Absolutely this. Yes, except not vacuum hose. Something oil/fuel safe is a better idea.
×
×
  • Create New...