Jump to content
SAU Community

Victorian Bridge Clearances- Confused And Need Halp


Recommended Posts

Yes...

NO

3.3 means that the bridge is 3.3 metres at its lowest point.

BUT i have taken a 4.0 truck under a 4.0 bridge, its at your own risk and if it all goes wrong then it REALLY REALLY goes wrong.

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyre...0/tr1999024.pdf

There we go - should have checked vicroads first ;)

I will assume that you are saying that you should have checked vic roads first and your not having a go at me.

post-27276-1256481575_thumb.jpg

Edited by W0rp3D

Gee you are one defensive boy lately ;)

Either way i would be highly surprise if a bridge that says 3.3M clearance, actually is 3.3

It would likely be 3.4/3.5 to account for the idiot factor, because lets face it, there are plenty of morons out there.

Or worse case, just drop the tyre pressures down.

Gee you are one defensive boy lately ;)

I have noticed that, maybe its my time of month :P

Either way i would be highly surprise if a bridge that says 3.3M clearance, actually is 3.3

It would likely be 3.4/3.5 to account for the idiot factor, because lets face it, there are plenty of morons out there.

Or worse case, just drop the tyre pressures down.

No doubt the bridges are not quite as low as they say and no doubt the truck is also not quite as high either (especially if it is a rental, they probably say its higher to account for the idiot factor) but for the odd occasion that the two are right i would rather spend the 5 minutes going the long way round.

unsure if its unladen, asking a question for the old man.

thanks for the replies guys, guess we'll play it safe and go around

Just curious how big is the truck your trying to get under it?

EDIT: Oops didn't notice where you said "3.3H"

For the record, we have just built a pedestrian bridge over the King's way on-ramp from Whiteman Street, near Crown. The clearance indicated on the sign is less than the actual clearance for obvious reasons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they do. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec How does the liner interact with that? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
    • Yeah, nah. Anyone not putting the absolutely largest battery that will physically fit (ie, NS70 X) is not thinking straight. the NS70 X is close on double the capacity of the "stock" unit.
×
×
  • Create New...