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As promised………… the first start. Rough and a few bugs to work out. Still she lives att.1cnTUvrWxiOZUFbg0S43m1VFUdDhxGBq3UU53bvtkww.mp4 -
Can I suggest a 15W50 oil is too heavy. Its a brand new engine - you should be able to run something like a 10W30. Shove some steel wool into your catch can - more technically "oil/air separator" - so that the oil vapour has something to condense on. -
Nice write up solder thank you. that problem had fallen into another days fun. I wanted to get this cold side in and turned over so it was wired up the same to get a start. no luck I got a couple of cough’s before the battery died unfortunately. we have some wether on the way and I’m back to work, I will order your plugs and re wire them in the near future. 🤙
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By joshuaho96 · Posted
It was simpler than that. Few things going on. One is that I hate plastic clutch alignment tools. Anybody who reads this in the future and is considering one, don't. Even for 3 USD it's not worth it. Mine left plastic shreds all over the inside of the clutch hub. Now I need a proper steel one and to re-grease the hub splines very carefully without leaving any excess that could go into the friction disk or anywhere else unintended. The second is that I'm bad at reading directions. There is a step in the instruction manual that tells you to put in the 3 M6 bolts BEFORE you attempt to put the clutch onto the flywheel which has been bolted to the crank. You should tighten them slowly and evenly in half turn increments so the springs all compress evenly. Once hand tight back it off until the friction disk can move around between the midplate and the pressure plate. Otherwise the hub won't be able to move properly to line up everything. The last point which is possibly the most important and is not mentioned in the manual or anywhere at all is that the friction disks are actually not symmetrical. There is a very, very subtle asymmetry to the fingers where they mesh with the hub. These fingers need to be pointing towards the midplate. This helps to make sure the friction disks stay engaged with the hub. Otherwise there is a distinct risk they pop up and out of the hub while you assemble, leading to the warped pressure plate I posted initially. -
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