Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

from your photo it just looks like LCA, there designed to bend / fold like that to take the impact. from the pics it looks like minimal damage.

get a few quotes, you might find you can get a new turbo out of it. lolz

Edited by 32_Dave
  • 4 weeks later...
Hahaha looks like you and I are in the same boat bro have a look at these:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Da...rm-t292811.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...ft-t294690.html

Best of luck to you!

Hahaha f*$kin cats and dogs aye! Well the car has been repaired and just needs a wheel alignment, which I am going to hold off doing until I get my teins and rims ;) .

All up cost me $225 for the control arm, $100 bucks for my dads mate (mobile mech) to replace it and $1880 for the panel repair (also had the front of my car where my missus sister reversed into it fixed). So happy with the panel repair done by City Crash Repairs in Townsville, car looks new! I rocked up and the car was polished (and clay barred), wheels cleaned up and the interior vacuumed. Great service highly recommended guys!

hey mate, looks like u just gotta replace lower control arm, piece of cake, i can repair and paint that rear quarter for $450 i would only need the car for 3 days at the most, it would be painted in a booth [no rough backyard job] i do this shit everyday, im in moss st underwood, my number is <removed>

Mate I bought my 33 smacked up it had taken a hit in the exaxt same position but about 3x worse than that. the guard was caved in alot worse aswell. $50 for a 2nd hand control arm you can take the old one out and put the new one in yourself theres all of about 4 bolts. That will get your car rolling again way. There was no chassis or subframe damage to mine and as i said it was far worse than that. The panel damage is minimal would take no time to have it looking brand new again. Don't get sucked in by some panel beater telling you the damage is far worse than it is, because its nothing. It will take 10mins to replace the control arm and go from there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...