Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi Guys

Im a bit of an amateur wen it comes to HIDs. I wanted to change mine as it has the boring yellow lights. I heard that it is expensive to fit the kit as the front bumper needs to come off. Is this true and is it feasable to go 4 a decent aftermarket kit($300) over here in Perth. Anyone had experiance wid this matter.?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/
Share on other sites

NYTSKY has a thread in the group buy section, they are about $199 delivered, or there abouts.

The front bar does not need to come off, you should be able to do all of the installing yourself, its pretty straight forward.

Remove the old globes

Plug the new globe into the new ballast

Connect the +ve and -ve wires

Place new globe into headlight

Mount ballast securely

and that is about it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/#findComment-4900855
Share on other sites

My 2 cents worth....

1. The Chinese HID kits are around $120 delivered. Most likely, you'll need the D2R2 bulb (from memory) for the normal headlights, and a H4 Hi/Low beam for the other headlight housing (if you wanted the full conversion done). I personally would not go for any 'expensive' kit....For example, my friend bought a $300 kit 3 years ago (Made in some Euro country) for his BMW and recently had to replace his igniter...At the same time, I have HID'ed 3 cars so far with the Chinese kits and not one has failed me.

2. Go for the slim line HID igniters as there are the next gen HIDs and are based on IC rather than the conventional larger electronic components. Plus, since they are smaller, you can hide/find a better mounting spot.

3. I personally favour 8000k for the 'brightness' as it's white....(But Rianto would disagree with this...LOL)

4. Once you're done, make sure that you 'lower' your lenses as HID tend to blind oncoming traffic, so turn the direction down a bit.

5. Lastly, if yours is a coupe, to get the full white light look, you'll need to also convert the long side light (fogs). Much easier for the sedan as you only need T10 wedge bulbs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/#findComment-4902073
Share on other sites

From My experence: I had done plenty of job to my coupe headlight:

1. Restore factory HID been remove by compliance. (D2R)

2. Upgrade the Lower High beam/Fog to H4 HID ( Which is totaly waste of money)

3. Upgrade the whole headlight to 06 projector one.

4. Upgrade the driving light of 06 headlight to HID (6000k)

5. Upgrade the low beam to 6000k to match color (D2S)

6. Change the city light of 06 light to white color to match HID

7. Change the bumper turning light to LED ( Not satisfied, try to find a better way)

8. Current working on a project of QUAD HID projector with QUAD Bi-Xeon.

From what I Know about the light:

1. To install the HID or do anything about headligth. If you want to do it fast, safe and not hurt yourself, remove the bumper, it only take you 20 min but save plenty of time to dig everthing from the exetrm narrow enging bay.

2. Upgrade the low section-Fog/high to HID is not a good idea.

No only a set of good chinese H4 Hi/Low Telescopic HID cost aroud AUD $150-$200.( the one can slide forward and backward to work both as High/Low)

Also the output is uneven, unsafe. blind everyone on road and make you looks stupid.

Also the reflect bowl is design for Halogen bulb, it work really bad with HID bulb by spay plenty light to the unnecessary area, that is reason why it looks bright outside but not bright for driver's eye.

3. For pre 2006 coupe the factory HID is not bad at all. If you after colors, just throw in a set of 6000k D2R bulb from ebay for $40, 1 set of Blue tint H4 for color match. Done. no need to upgrade as the output after upgrade is not surprise at all.

4. For the best output and look. Go for retro fit.

Cheers

Frank

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/#findComment-4902343
Share on other sites

Nice post.

did you swap the projector (left <-> right)?

From My experence: I had done plenty of job to my coupe headlight:

1. Restore factory HID been remove by compliance. (D2R)

2. Upgrade the Lower High beam/Fog to H4 HID ( Which is totaly waste of money)

3. Upgrade the whole headlight to 06 projector one.

4. Upgrade the driving light of 06 headlight to HID (6000k)

5. Upgrade the low beam to 6000k to match color (D2S)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/#findComment-4904893
Share on other sites

3. For pre 2006 coupe the factory HID is not bad at all. If you after colors, just throw in a set of 6000k D2R bulb from ebay for $40, 1 set of Blue tint H4 for color match. Done. no need to upgrade as the output after upgrade is not surprise at all.

4. For the best output and look. Go for retro fit.

Cheers

Frank

As has been said, great post.

Do I take from your point 3 & 4 that whilst the factory ones are good, your opinion would be that a retrofit of the ones such as is being run in the group-buy are a better option if you are coming from compliance-spec butchered parts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/#findComment-4906619
Share on other sites

As has been said, great post.

Do I take from your point 3 & 4 that whilst the factory ones are good, your opinion would be that a retrofit of the ones such as is being run in the group-buy are a better option if you are coming from compliance-spec butchered parts?

Sorry for the unclear points.

for point 3:

For pre 2006 coupe the factory HID is not bad at all. If you after colors, just throw in a set of 6000k D2R bulb from ebay for $40, 1 set of Blue tint H4 for color match. Done. no need to upgrade as the output after upgrade is not surprise at all

the Pre 2006 coupe head light came with factory reflect bowl HID for low beam, H4 reflect bowl for High/Fog. The performance is not bad at all. Only if some people like the HID a bit bluer, a set of 6000k D2R bolb will fit perfect. The blue tint H4 for High/Fog will make two part of light color match.

The Group buy is just a simple aftermarket PNP HID kit. They are no better than the OEM hid expect the bulb is newer. If you already have OEM HID, no need to change to that.

Regarding the Retrofit, I mean get the OEM projector into headlight housing like this

orig.jpg

Buy doing this, you will have the best performance and OEM look.

Frank

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/#findComment-4907350
Share on other sites

Sorry for hijacking this thread AND harrassing Frank, but its all good info...

So, I'm currently HID-less. :/

Would you consider it a good option Frank to buy the aftermarket HID's HERE

The Projector Kit from HERE ...RHD of course.

and shrouds to bling it up a little HERE

And will all that work together in blissful harmony?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/#findComment-4908808
Share on other sites

Sorry for hijacking this thread AND harrassing Frank, but its all good info...

So, I'm currently HID-less. :/

Would you consider it a good option Frank to buy the aftermarket HID's HERE

The Projector Kit from HERE ...RHD of course.

and shrouds to bling it up a little HERE

And will all that work together in blissful harmony?

Hi mate:

what kind of headligth you get. I though all the 03+ coupe headlight came with HID and may or may not been removed by compliance.

Frank

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/#findComment-4909031
Share on other sites

3. I personally favour 8000k for the 'brightness' as it's white....(But Rianto would disagree with this...LOL)

YEAH! Don't listen to Nelson... 4000K despite lower colour temp it actually outputs more Lumens (more lights).

I would personally stay up to 6000K as the max (5000K if you can find it is probably the best) as from 6000K onwards

it would start to look blue-ish then it will go purple and you actually start loosing illumination (becomes dimmer).

I hate blue-ish looking headlights, those colours are best for riced up shitboxes with more rust holes in the exhaust than 'go'.

5. Lastly, if yours is a coupe, to get the full white light look, you'll need to also convert the long side light (fogs). Much easier for the sedan as you only need T10 wedge bulbs.

always wondered what type of bulb they use for the long side... is it a customised illumination strip for V35?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293585-hid-lights/#findComment-4912156
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...