Jump to content
SAU Community

Got My Manifold (thanks Coupe72001 )

harvo

By harvo,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

harvo Collaborator

harvo

Posted
Posted

So yeah I got another manifold (stamped E30) for the Holley. It still needs an adapter but is a nicer lookin piece of kit then the one on the motor now.

What I need to know is when you guys change carby's/extractors what of the associated gear can be chucked in the leftovers pile and what needs to be kept connected?

I would like to remove as much shit as I can to tidy up the engine bay

Can this pipe coming out of the block to exhaust be deleted

The 20mm one with the smaller one off the side?

Image219.jpg

What else can go?

Also need a longer acclerator cable if anyone knows of anything useful?

Cheers Dan

This is the new manifold and adapter so far

IMG_0071.jpg

so shiny :ninja:

IMG_0072.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293651-got-my-manifold-thanks-coupe72001/
Share on other sites
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

Having looked at a bunch of Jap Nostalgia mags, it seems that everyone has a different idea about what to to with the crank breather; I've seen it blocked off with a welsh plug, connected with a hose to the rocker cover breather and finally allowed to vent to atmosphere via a filter. I'm with Ricky on this one, a little K and N filter tucked out of harm's way seems like the way to go.

As soon as I get my car back (this weekend) from the carby tuners I'll post some engine bay pics for you to compare with; as I have deleted as much as possible from my engine! No air con, power steer, EFI, ECU, AFM... it's pretty much bare bones.

Once again; it's great to see such an interesting project coming along.

harvo Collaborator

harvo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alrighty, thanks guys I'm slowly getting it sorted.

This is why I asked about the crank breather, the supercharger inlet is a tight fit on all sides.

Image233.jpg

So, If I cut the crank breather off a little closer to the block (removing the smaller vent hose all together) and plumb that to my crude little catch can will that remove the need for the PCV valve?

and if I go down this path, what then do I need to do with the fuel tank vent which is connected to the small crank case vent via this valve that also goes to the air filter housing.

Image236.jpg

Thanks again for your help, I'm all for leaving stuff as is (if it ain't broke), but most of this stuff will be redundant once the new manifold/Holley goes on.

  • 2 weeks later...
harvo Collaborator

harvo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so.....I tried fitting the new manifold but it's fouling on the old exhaust manifold heat exchanger, so I'm going to need to get a set of extractors I think.

Not having much luck finding a set for the Datto, just wondering if anything else will work, patrol/240/260/280z? anything else? I'm sure I've read that the z's won't work.

Cheers Dan

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

R30 extractors fit a treat. Most of my exhaust is R30 - you only run into problems around halfshafts/rear muffler.

I suspect that 240K extractors will fit, but maybe pointing in a bit of a strange angle under the car.

Also regarding the previous posts about what to do with the crank/rocker breathers, I was informed at the NDSOC show and shine if I want to do a sprint or hill climb in my car (and God knows I do) I will need to plumb both those guys into a canister or catch can of at least 1L capacity like your awesome Red Bull set up.

harvo Collaborator

harvo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ahh, thankyou good sir.

The patrol stuff looks to come down fairly sharply then sweep back, same basket as the z stuff i think.

As for my catch can, It came with my old KE70 turbo wagon and was replaced asap cause it was just to hectic for the car. It'll do for now untill I can make a new one.

Time to go shopping ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
×
×
  • Create New...