Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, I thought iI would pop this up here for all you to ponder. its got me stumped.

I have a 32 gtst, which occasionally the left side headlight wont work. OK sounds like a loose wire or bad earth.

Except when you turn the headlights on and off again it works the second time.

only thing i can think of is maby dirty contacts in the switch?

it has also done it when you turn the high beam off, not very often but it has done it.

any ideas of what to look at and what to try?

cheers jamie :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293689-strange-headlight-problems-32-gtst/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem, exept my right headlight didnt work at all. What i did was meter the voltage without the globe connected. both headlights metered the same but when a globe was plugged in it wouldnt work. The way i fixed it was re-wired both headlights with relays on it. Its about a hour worth of work and will cost about $20 for the relays but it fixed it and havent had a problem since. I have read of people pulling the switch apart and cleaning and bending the connections on the switch,i just cbf pulling the switch apart.

my 2c anyways.

hey all, I thought iI would pop this up here for all you to ponder. its got me stumped.

I have a 32 gtst, which occasionally the left side headlight wont work. OK sounds like a loose wire or bad earth.

Except when you turn the headlights on and off again it works the second time.

only thing i can think of is maby dirty contacts in the switch?

it has also done it when you turn the high beam off, not very often but it has done it.

any ideas of what to look at and what to try?

cheers jamie :D

Nissans use a 4 circuit headlamp switch (high low right left)therefore 4 contacts are used.More than likely you will have a dirty connection on one ,easy fix fine wet and dry paper and retension contact

Yep, odds on it's actual headlight switch in the dash. Nissan decided to have the lights draw all the current through this switch, instead of run a relay. So over time the plastic contact lugs melt.

When my car did this, I just got a 2nd hand switch which fixed it. Plan to wire up the relays when i've got some spare time.

If you wanna have a go, this should help: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Nissan uses multiple ground paths for lights , look near the radiator /headlight you should see a ring terminal on a bolt. on each side, can be rusted or loose from years of abuse.

also the switches fail often, similar issues on my R31 , pulled the switch apart (frosted plastic bit on the back of the switch )and the contacts needed small tweak/filing to contact again(poor man fix)

or switch out the headlight switch fixes it 90% of the time if the grounds , relays are good

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to moth things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
    • The log you did with ECU voltage, can you log the other things too like rpm and oil pressure? Need all that info together to compare easily
    • Editting as I hit post to soon, and this will lock out otherwise.
    • Think ill be going hunting for bad earths and might just replace the alternator for shits n gigs as its an LS alternator but only about 5 years old with very minimal use in that 5 years.
×
×
  • Create New...