Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Brake Brake System, Need Some Help To Identify And Advise

DatsunMotorSports
 Share

Recommended Posts

DatsunMotorSports Explorer

DatsunMotorSports

Posted
Posted

I have a brake booster and master cylinder from a R32 clip. Im considering installing it into an old S30 chassis(zcar). It almost bolts into the firewall and the pedal linkage works. The master cylinder has a built in "proportioning valve". I was told it came from a GTR, but I think it may have been from a RB20DET equipped R32. The master cylinder looks like it was a Non-ABS equipped unit. It has 3 lines coming out of it. One is at a 45* angle. It apears that the rear 2 are the front left and right while the farthest forward is the rear brakes.

I would like to see if anyone has a clue as to what would be in the rest of the brake system. What valves would I be missing, etc. Id almost guess that there isnt anything else in the system other than the master cylinder.

Can anyone shed some light on what system I am dealing with?

Anyone have a diagram for that system and what components make it up?(or even a list)

If it will help I can post a picture of the unit.

Worse comes to worse I will bolt a S130 (82-83) master cylinder to the booster and use that. (the brake booster is far superior to the single diaphram that came on my Z) I need a larger cylinder to support the larger brakes Im going to install.

Thanks for any help you guys can supply

Ray

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

its might still be 32 gtr, there are only 3 lines from it (2x front, 1x rear). but ultimately there is nothing special it is just a master cylinder with a given diameter (11/16th from memory but you could confirm with a search in this section). Are there any markings on it, I can check part numbers if required.

not sure about other components I have never got around to removing the whole system at one time. the rear certainly has some mounting blocks but afaik it does not include proportioning valves.

if you are doing a custom setup (sounds very custom to me), I would use the master cylinder you have (assuming it is big enough for the caliper pistons you have), the booster you have, and an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear circuit to deal with any bias problem that turns up

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

you need a gq patrol cyl. 1 1/16" no prop valve bolts right up.

gtst is 15/16 gtr is 1" gtr with brembo is 1 1/16" bm50 gtst bm54 gtr bm56 brembo.

non abs cyl, front 2 are the front and the single one is the rear. abs has just 2 and differant prop valve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...