Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I am new to the forum, my name is Toni.. I am so blind about Skylines and mods, but now, I am interested on buying a skyline.. I have a budget of 20-23k..

I am divided between R34 GT-T or R33 GT-R.. Which one posses the best value for money? And how about the resale value? Is it good to buy the standard or modified car?

I am living in Melbourne city rite now, but I have to go to my uni every 3-4 days/week (distance: 20km from home to uni). I like to go to out from the city to see landscapes.. I don't have any family here, because I am an international student, that's why I have a bad english.. Sorry..

So, which car suits me the most?? R34 GT-T or R33 GT-R? Or do you guys have other ideas? How about Supra or GTO twin turbo?

Thanks for the responds guys!!

Edited by Toni X
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293726-new-to-the-forum/
Share on other sites

Firstly Welcome.

I'd say a search will pull up some comparisons of 34 gtt's vs 33gtr's as im sure a few people have asked the question,

That said, i believe that the general consensus will be that a gtr is a gtr, and that will out perform the 34gtt. The 34 on the other hand has a nicer newer interior.

If you are after performance you are probably best off going for the gtr, as long as you can afford maintenance costs as many people will tell you they can be costly if/when things start to go pear shaped.(rebuild?)

That aside, the 34gtt is a great car, comfy and quick. And a fair few manual examples around for sale at the moment for 18-23k, some more modded than others.

Good luck with the purchase

Firstly Welcome.

I'd say a search will pull up some comparisons of 34 gtt's vs 33gtr's as im sure a few people have asked the question,

That said, i believe that the general consensus will be that a gtr is a gtr, and that will out perform the 34gtt. The 34 on the other hand has a nicer newer interior.

If you are after performance you are probably best off going for the gtr, as long as you can afford maintenance costs as many people will tell you they can be costly if/when things start to go pear shaped.(rebuild?)

That aside, the 34gtt is a great car, comfy and quick. And a fair few manual examples around for sale at the moment for 18-23k, some more modded than others.

Good luck with the purchase

Nice to know you Rush,

But some of friends said to me that it is better to buy a hot hatch such as Civic Type R, because the there is not too much diff on the performance compared to GTT..

How about the GT-T maintenance? Is it expensive even if I just buy it for a daily usage? Thanks for your respond..

Nice to know you Rush,

But some of friends said to me that it is better to buy a hot hatch such as Civic Type R, because the there is not too much diff on the performance compared to GTT..

How about the GT-T maintenance? Is it expensive even if I just buy it for a daily usage? Thanks for your respond..

I use my 34 as a daily car, i change the oil and plugs(copper) every 5000kms, so how long that lasts will depend on how much you drive, but your looking at $20ish for copper plugs and $60-80 for a good oil and filter,

Thats about all, checking the fluids obviously costs nothing unless they need to be topped up.

I can't say much regarding the Civics etc other than there is no better feeling that being stuck to your seat when boost kicks in :) turbo FTW

haha i can't believe a uni student would be able to afford a GT-R or something of that ilk!

Easy! You just need to downgrade from 2 minute noodle bowls to 2 minute noodle cups :)

Watch the savings come rolling in.

But some of friends said to me that it is better to buy a hot hatch such as Civic Type R, because the there is not too much diff on the performance compared to GTT..

By all means,

listen to your so called 'friends'

buy your hot hatch

go on

do it

I dare ya :)

btw welcome

welcome

before you go any further, are you willing to be paying the extra money for premium unleaded (98 octane) fuel? because you will have to for any of the option you have listed. if you aren't willing to pay the extra, then definately go the hot hatch.

go the gt-t over the gtr. a gtr in your price range is going to be a bit tired, so going to cost more in maintenance, especially if something lets go. also general running costs will be higher. don't bother with the GTO. they aren't bad cars, but a bugger to fix if something goes wrong. as for the supra, there isn't a better engine than the 2jz, but i personally hate the interior, and would never own one for that simple reason. a car can be ugly on the outside and i don't much care, but the interior, that has to be nice, because that is what you see when you drive it.

the other option is to go the hot hatch route but get something like a n15 pulsar SSS that has either had a turbo motor bolted in, or had a turbo bolted onto the stock engine. they will go very well and are a nice car to drive (i have a non turbo one). just don't thrash the arse out of it and go chasing lots of power unless it has had the gearbox rebuilt with a straight cut gearset.

also, is your budget 20 to 23k including insurance? depending on your age and your location, full comp insurance could be up to 3 or 4 thousand.

other cars i would also think about are a 180sx or silvia (just get the one with the sr20det, and not the ca18det) or a r33. either of these are going to be cheaper, leaving you with more money to do mods with if you are looking at doing that.

but it really comes down to what sort of driving you are looking at doing. if it is simply going to be commuting to uni and not much else (no going cruising, etc) then just a hatch like the n15 SSS with the stock engine and no turbo will do the job. it will run cheaper (don't have to run it on premium fuel), cost less to insure and still be nice to drive.

I would go the R34 GTT... you could get a good one for around 18K and you'll have enough left over for insurance with your budget.

I agree with Marc, a R33 GTR could be a little more tired, more maintenance etc... to me it's more of a car you get if you have good mechanical knowledge and have the time, money and space (garaging!) to baby it. It's not what I would get as a uni student, especially if you're going to be driving it there as a daily driver.

Resale value? It doesn't matter which one you get... it won't be pretty so I wouldn't be getting a Skyline if that's important to you :D

Standard or modified is entirely up to you. I just bought a GTT and I wanted a stock one as I didn't want one that someone else had messed around with too much. I ended up with a few minor mods that were a bonus but the car was clean and unmolested. I don't have the money to be putting it in a workshop if other people's "mods" get issues, and I don't have the knowledge to fix it myself.

Good luck and welcome to the forum Toni :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo
    • Saturday 8th February 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Thursday 6th February 8pm. Supp Regs: TBC Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email [email protected] To compete in this event you will require A valid AASA General speed licence Or (Day license is $35.00 via the AASA Website) MA licenses no longer accepted A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccomended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs Above. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Entry Link >> https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250208 Entry List: 1. Martin Sullivan 2.  3.  4.  5.  6.  7.  8.  9. 10.  11. 12.   13. 14 15.  16.  17.  18.  19. 20.  21.  22.  23.  24.  25. 26.    Reserve list 1.  2.
    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
×
×
  • Create New...