Jump to content
SAU Community

New To The Forum

Toni X

By Toni X,
in Introduce yourself

 Share

Recommended Posts

Toni X Rookie

Toni X

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all, I am new to the forum, my name is Toni.. I am so blind about Skylines and mods, but now, I am interested on buying a skyline.. I have a budget of 20-23k..

I am divided between R34 GT-T or R33 GT-R.. Which one posses the best value for money? And how about the resale value? Is it good to buy the standard or modified car?

I am living in Melbourne city rite now, but I have to go to my uni every 3-4 days/week (distance: 20km from home to uni). I like to go to out from the city to see landscapes.. I don't have any family here, because I am an international student, that's why I have a bad english.. Sorry..

So, which car suits me the most?? R34 GT-T or R33 GT-R? Or do you guys have other ideas? How about Supra or GTO twin turbo?

Thanks for the responds guys!!

Edited by Toni X
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293726-new-to-the-forum/
Share on other sites
RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
Posted

Firstly Welcome.

I'd say a search will pull up some comparisons of 34 gtt's vs 33gtr's as im sure a few people have asked the question,

That said, i believe that the general consensus will be that a gtr is a gtr, and that will out perform the 34gtt. The 34 on the other hand has a nicer newer interior.

If you are after performance you are probably best off going for the gtr, as long as you can afford maintenance costs as many people will tell you they can be costly if/when things start to go pear shaped.(rebuild?)

That aside, the 34gtt is a great car, comfy and quick. And a fair few manual examples around for sale at the moment for 18-23k, some more modded than others.

Good luck with the purchase

Toni X Rookie

Toni X

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Firstly Welcome.

I'd say a search will pull up some comparisons of 34 gtt's vs 33gtr's as im sure a few people have asked the question,

That said, i believe that the general consensus will be that a gtr is a gtr, and that will out perform the 34gtt. The 34 on the other hand has a nicer newer interior.

If you are after performance you are probably best off going for the gtr, as long as you can afford maintenance costs as many people will tell you they can be costly if/when things start to go pear shaped.(rebuild?)

That aside, the 34gtt is a great car, comfy and quick. And a fair few manual examples around for sale at the moment for 18-23k, some more modded than others.

Good luck with the purchase

Nice to know you Rush,

But some of friends said to me that it is better to buy a hot hatch such as Civic Type R, because the there is not too much diff on the performance compared to GTT..

How about the GT-T maintenance? Is it expensive even if I just buy it for a daily usage? Thanks for your respond..

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
Posted
Nice to know you Rush,

But some of friends said to me that it is better to buy a hot hatch such as Civic Type R, because the there is not too much diff on the performance compared to GTT..

How about the GT-T maintenance? Is it expensive even if I just buy it for a daily usage? Thanks for your respond..

I use my 34 as a daily car, i change the oil and plugs(copper) every 5000kms, so how long that lasts will depend on how much you drive, but your looking at $20ish for copper plugs and $60-80 for a good oil and filter,

Thats about all, checking the fluids obviously costs nothing unless they need to be topped up.

I can't say much regarding the Civics etc other than there is no better feeling that being stuck to your seat when boost kicks in :) turbo FTW

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted
haha i can't believe a uni student would be able to afford a GT-R or something of that ilk!

Easy! You just need to downgrade from 2 minute noodle bowls to 2 minute noodle cups :)

Watch the savings come rolling in.

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted
But some of friends said to me that it is better to buy a hot hatch such as Civic Type R, because the there is not too much diff on the performance compared to GTT..

By all means,

listen to your so called 'friends'

buy your hot hatch

go on

do it

I dare ya :)

btw welcome

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

welcome

before you go any further, are you willing to be paying the extra money for premium unleaded (98 octane) fuel? because you will have to for any of the option you have listed. if you aren't willing to pay the extra, then definately go the hot hatch.

go the gt-t over the gtr. a gtr in your price range is going to be a bit tired, so going to cost more in maintenance, especially if something lets go. also general running costs will be higher. don't bother with the GTO. they aren't bad cars, but a bugger to fix if something goes wrong. as for the supra, there isn't a better engine than the 2jz, but i personally hate the interior, and would never own one for that simple reason. a car can be ugly on the outside and i don't much care, but the interior, that has to be nice, because that is what you see when you drive it.

the other option is to go the hot hatch route but get something like a n15 pulsar SSS that has either had a turbo motor bolted in, or had a turbo bolted onto the stock engine. they will go very well and are a nice car to drive (i have a non turbo one). just don't thrash the arse out of it and go chasing lots of power unless it has had the gearbox rebuilt with a straight cut gearset.

also, is your budget 20 to 23k including insurance? depending on your age and your location, full comp insurance could be up to 3 or 4 thousand.

other cars i would also think about are a 180sx or silvia (just get the one with the sr20det, and not the ca18det) or a r33. either of these are going to be cheaper, leaving you with more money to do mods with if you are looking at doing that.

but it really comes down to what sort of driving you are looking at doing. if it is simply going to be commuting to uni and not much else (no going cruising, etc) then just a hatch like the n15 SSS with the stock engine and no turbo will do the job. it will run cheaper (don't have to run it on premium fuel), cost less to insure and still be nice to drive.

Shell Grand Master

Shell

Posted
Posted

I would go the R34 GTT... you could get a good one for around 18K and you'll have enough left over for insurance with your budget.

I agree with Marc, a R33 GTR could be a little more tired, more maintenance etc... to me it's more of a car you get if you have good mechanical knowledge and have the time, money and space (garaging!) to baby it. It's not what I would get as a uni student, especially if you're going to be driving it there as a daily driver.

Resale value? It doesn't matter which one you get... it won't be pretty so I wouldn't be getting a Skyline if that's important to you :D

Standard or modified is entirely up to you. I just bought a GTT and I wanted a stock one as I didn't want one that someone else had messed around with too much. I ended up with a few minor mods that were a bonus but the car was clean and unmolested. I don't have the money to be putting it in a workshop if other people's "mods" get issues, and I don't have the knowledge to fix it myself.

Good luck and welcome to the forum Toni :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      How much roughly to convert stock r32gtr to single high mount turbo + ecu and tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • Watermouse
      R34 GTT Battery Relocation To Trunk

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • elir32
      Rv37 400r questions

      By elir32 · Posted

      Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • sonicii
      Rv37 400r questions

      By sonicii · Posted

      No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • sonicii
      HY51 Fuga Hybrid

      By sonicii · Posted

      There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
×
×
  • Create New...