Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, recently purchased myself a series 2 Stagea RB25DET Neo and the other day taking it on a long drive and after arriving home i could hear a almost knocking noise from the engine (barley noticeable but bad enough to make me concerned) so i popped the hood and had a listen.- the noise is worse when hot, cant be heard off of idle, isn't hearable at idle when cold and using the screw driver trick the noise can be hear from the front (near runners 1,2) of the intake manifold but the noise can also be heard from the RH rear rocker cover... Just wondering if anyone has had any similar experiences.

Thinking it could be one of the rear cam/shim clearance.-noise at the back of the rocker cover makes me think that.

Any advice/experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Some photos of the Joy.

post-66200-1256635586_thumb.jpg

post-66200-1256636019_thumb.jpg

post-66200-1256636124_thumb.jpg

post-66200-1256636245_thumb.jpg

post-66200-1256636428_thumb.jpg

Thanks.

Firstly, congratulations on your purchase and welcome to SAU.

Is it only audible with the engine off and after a long drive, when the engine has had a chance to reach full operating temps? If it's a ticking noise with the engine off, it's most likely only the regular sound of the engine cooling down.

Because there are different metals used for different parts of the engine, they all cool at different rates, and the stretching and contracting of those metals at different rates is what causes that noise.

Thanks mate.

Nah i know that noise, the noise Im hearing is always at idle when hot and its more of a knock then a tick (sorry about the title description).

Yeah looking forward too a couple of Stagea cruises.

and too take some more photos.

noise from the intake would more than likley be injector tap or worse an air leak (you would notice sh***y running though), my s1 injectors are quite loud but they have been reco'd, use you screwdriver trick on the injectors and you will see what im talking about, to listen for an air leak, i use a piece of vacum hose stuck in my ear one end and point it around the intake gasket you will be suprised at what you can hear doing this, the noise at the back of the tapper cover could be a sticky lifter maybe, run some nulon lifter free through it next oil change and see how it goes!!

Edited by fat-lad
noise from the intake would more than likley be injector tap or worse an air leak (you would notice sh***y running though), my s1 injectors are quite loud but they have been reco'd, use you screwdriver trick on the injectors and you will see what im talking about, to listen for an air leak, i use a piece of vacum hose stuck in my ear one end and point it around the intake gasket you will be suprised at what you can hear doing this, the noise at the back of the tapper cover could be a sticky lifter maybe, run some nulon lifter free through it next oil change and see how it goes!!

lol, can we get a vid of you doing this? :banana:

Cheers for the input fellas. Okay so today i grabbed some of that Wynns engine flush and put it in the car and then drove the car to trade school ( wynns man said it was okay to leave it in over night). Got too trade school noise was still there a couple of the blokes had a listen and said bottom end. But bottom end is more under load and higher up in revs. So after trade school i drove it too work (I'm an apprentice mechanic)-And let the other mechanics have a listen all of them couldn't distinguish where or what it was possibly shims/lifters. (unsure if series 2 are hydraulic or not).

But the noise is that quite when they were trying to listen too it they said don't worry about it and wait a little bit and see if it gets worse.

So i drained the engine oil etc. ran it again, drained it again. Put some 10w40 in and started her up, drove the car home and the noise was still there.

So im at the point where i am waiting and hoping that it doesn't get worse. (and ill be keeping a close ear out for any change what so ever)

Thanks again.

My previous s2 used to make a faint knocking noise when idling. Wasn't loud or anything and didn't sound that bad. It never got any worse so I never did anything about it. Pretty sure I was told it was likely the lifters...so my guess is that its fairly normal on the NEO engines.

I owned the car for 2 years and never had any issues from the engine. The RB25's are pretty solid. Not the smoothest idle i've heard but it was always a strong performer. :D

RB engines can smooth idle.Ghostrider sent me a pic of his 1UZ Cressida that had a 50c piece standing up with motor running. LOL. I sent a pic back of my S1 with the 50c standing, so they can idle smooth. I must admit though that had just give it a major service and changed all the belts.

On the S2, at the back of the tappet cover is a polution control solenoid. It tickers away at idle and goes away as soon as you put some revs in.

Mazda V6's used to have the same problem and the factory solution was to rubber mount the solenoid.

Either way, the NEO is a solid motor, thrash it till blows!

Yeah come to the dyno day.... So you can meet some of the SA stag crew and chuck it on the rollers to see if its running as it should and then you will have a base figure before mods :happy:

Looking forward to catching up with you all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Selling a genuine Nissan Skyline R33 Coupe 8-Pin Power Window Master Switch Part No. 25401-26U10 Price $300   IMPUL Gear Knob – Rare JDM Upgrade Upgrade your interior with this genuine IMPUL gear knob – a rare and stylish addition to any JDM build. Premium quality, perfect fit, and an authentic Japanese touch for your ride.  Price:$300 Nissan Skyline R33 (Series 2) Sedan Tail Lights Immaculate Condition OEM JDM S2 a pair of OEM Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state. Price:$900   Located in Melbourne (Western Suburbs) – Shipping available Australia wide at buyer’s expense. DM if you need anymore details.  
    • KYBs are typically twin tube, putting them in the lower tier of desireability. Do you just want to replace worn out ones for the lowest cost? I mean, you wouldn't just replace one end of a car, if the rears are a similar age to the fronts, then they are probably nowhere near what they should be, and likely won't be great against brand new fronts. So, to spend ~$800 on 2nd tier dampers, when you could get a decent set of MCA coilovers for <$4k.....? As to the strut tops. 1st up, the Sparesbox site specifically tells you that they are not correct for an R33. Beyond that, why do you think you need them?
    • That's not very Toyota of the Toyota!
    • Bringing an old thread back to life Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock?  I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124?  https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY 341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no.  thanks all   
    • LandCruiser used to get a fluid flush every 12 to 18 months.   Only because it was about that often the electric motor on the master for brake assist kept dieing and needing to come off.
×
×
  • Create New...