Jump to content
SAU Community

New To The Family- Ticking Noise. Help Appreciated.


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, recently purchased myself a series 2 Stagea RB25DET Neo and the other day taking it on a long drive and after arriving home i could hear a almost knocking noise from the engine (barley noticeable but bad enough to make me concerned) so i popped the hood and had a listen.- the noise is worse when hot, cant be heard off of idle, isn't hearable at idle when cold and using the screw driver trick the noise can be hear from the front (near runners 1,2) of the intake manifold but the noise can also be heard from the RH rear rocker cover... Just wondering if anyone has had any similar experiences.

Thinking it could be one of the rear cam/shim clearance.-noise at the back of the rocker cover makes me think that.

Any advice/experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Some photos of the Joy.

post-66200-1256635586_thumb.jpg

post-66200-1256636019_thumb.jpg

post-66200-1256636124_thumb.jpg

post-66200-1256636245_thumb.jpg

post-66200-1256636428_thumb.jpg

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Firstly, congratulations on your purchase and welcome to SAU.

Is it only audible with the engine off and after a long drive, when the engine has had a chance to reach full operating temps? If it's a ticking noise with the engine off, it's most likely only the regular sound of the engine cooling down.

Because there are different metals used for different parts of the engine, they all cool at different rates, and the stretching and contracting of those metals at different rates is what causes that noise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

noise from the intake would more than likley be injector tap or worse an air leak (you would notice sh***y running though), my s1 injectors are quite loud but they have been reco'd, use you screwdriver trick on the injectors and you will see what im talking about, to listen for an air leak, i use a piece of vacum hose stuck in my ear one end and point it around the intake gasket you will be suprised at what you can hear doing this, the noise at the back of the tapper cover could be a sticky lifter maybe, run some nulon lifter free through it next oil change and see how it goes!!

Edited by fat-lad
Link to comment
Share on other sites

noise from the intake would more than likley be injector tap or worse an air leak (you would notice sh***y running though), my s1 injectors are quite loud but they have been reco'd, use you screwdriver trick on the injectors and you will see what im talking about, to listen for an air leak, i use a piece of vacum hose stuck in my ear one end and point it around the intake gasket you will be suprised at what you can hear doing this, the noise at the back of the tapper cover could be a sticky lifter maybe, run some nulon lifter free through it next oil change and see how it goes!!

lol, can we get a vid of you doing this? :banana:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers for the input fellas. Okay so today i grabbed some of that Wynns engine flush and put it in the car and then drove the car to trade school ( wynns man said it was okay to leave it in over night). Got too trade school noise was still there a couple of the blokes had a listen and said bottom end. But bottom end is more under load and higher up in revs. So after trade school i drove it too work (I'm an apprentice mechanic)-And let the other mechanics have a listen all of them couldn't distinguish where or what it was possibly shims/lifters. (unsure if series 2 are hydraulic or not).

But the noise is that quite when they were trying to listen too it they said don't worry about it and wait a little bit and see if it gets worse.

So i drained the engine oil etc. ran it again, drained it again. Put some 10w40 in and started her up, drove the car home and the noise was still there.

So im at the point where i am waiting and hoping that it doesn't get worse. (and ill be keeping a close ear out for any change what so ever)

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My previous s2 used to make a faint knocking noise when idling. Wasn't loud or anything and didn't sound that bad. It never got any worse so I never did anything about it. Pretty sure I was told it was likely the lifters...so my guess is that its fairly normal on the NEO engines.

I owned the car for 2 years and never had any issues from the engine. The RB25's are pretty solid. Not the smoothest idle i've heard but it was always a strong performer. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RB engines can smooth idle.Ghostrider sent me a pic of his 1UZ Cressida that had a 50c piece standing up with motor running. LOL. I sent a pic back of my S1 with the 50c standing, so they can idle smooth. I must admit though that had just give it a major service and changed all the belts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the S2, at the back of the tappet cover is a polution control solenoid. It tickers away at idle and goes away as soon as you put some revs in.

Mazda V6's used to have the same problem and the factory solution was to rubber mount the solenoid.

Either way, the NEO is a solid motor, thrash it till blows!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah come to the dyno day.... So you can meet some of the SA stag crew and chuck it on the rollers to see if its running as it should and then you will have a base figure before mods :happy:

Looking forward to catching up with you all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unless there's something particular about the Greddy manifold's injector holes that I'm not aware of, those injetcors look to be totally wrong. They would absolutely want to be spaced up to get those long snouts out of the runner. Which, I think, is not usually the way that that problem is solved. I think the problem is solved by using the correct injectors, which would be much more like what Andrew posted.
    • Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • EMJ33 or EJM33 - west end
    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
×
×
  • Create New...