Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got some parts lying around that i want to get rid off. Will post the smaller items at your expense but the larger items are pick-up only from Emerald, Victoria.

Electronics:

Apexi Pen Turbo Timer - Perfect condition black in colour - $50

JVC KD-DV4306 Headunit -Perfect condition- comes with remote and wiring loom,can play DVD's and also has a jack to connect I-pod - http://www.oztion.com.au/buy/auction.aspx?itemid=5842381 - $200

Kenwood KAC-6403 500W Amplifier- In new conditon, works perfect - http://www.productreview.com.au/showitem.php?item_id=15950 - $80

R32 GTST 1992 Parts:

Passanger side indicator - Has some scratches on far corner - $40

Climate control unit - Perfect condition - $60

Passenger and drivers side suspension set-up - Includes upper/lower control arms, knuckles/hubs etc - Crossmember sold - $100 each

Swaybar and links - $30

Castor rods - Rubbers in perfect condition - $50 Each

Steering rack - Good condition - $100

Front brakes with RDA slotted rotors - plenty of meat left on both the rotors and pads - $250

Coilovers - Rears are Bilstein and front are KYB Excel - G Gas Shocks - in very good condition, used for roughly 25,000KM. Once fitted they sit just at legal ride height - $300

Boot lid with original GTR Spoiler. Excelent condition, Has been de-badged and re-sprayed previously. Boot lid has 1 small scratch but could be buffed out and 1 small chip on spoiler although is almost un-noticable. - $350

Dash surround including wipers and light controls - Has a small crack in middle of plastic - Controls in perfect condition - $50

Speedo cable - Only used for roughly 5,000km - $50

Rear brakes & rotors - Good condition - Plenty of meat left on pads and rotors - $150

Rear subframe and diff - Good condition - $200

Manual Tailshaft - $100

Passenger and Drivers seats - in average condition - $40 each

AFM - Plastic is broken where bolts mount - Works perfectly - $40

Pics of some of the items can be found here - http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/

Edited by Shano3000

NEW PARTS:

Rear Subframe Including diff/Tailshaft/Rear Brake set-up/all suspension components. Passenger side lower control arm has damage, will need to be replaced. Everything else in good condition. $300

Complete Dash including vents - Dash in good condition apart from 2 small holes next to the instrument cluster where a guage was previously mounted. No bubbles, Passenger side vent is cracked. - $150

Pedal assemblies - good condition - Brake/Clutch/Excelerator - $50 Each

Rear seats - Good condition - $50

Rear seatbelts - Good condition - $40

Fuel tank - Has some scratching on the underside and a minor dent - $50

Damaged R32 Shell - Has damage above rear passenger wheel and drivers side rear quarter panel. Damaged rails. Front end of car is in good condition. $300

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
×
×
  • Create New...