Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got plenty of stuff left over fromthe r33 that i wrecked, NO ENGINE OR BOX

not really wanting a whole heap for most of the stuff, pretty much just let us know how much you are willing to pay and if you come pick up a few things it can be even cheaper

got most interior plastics in good nik

near perfect dash pad with most of the dash plastics

climate control unit

decent carpet, just needs a clean

complete heater/aircon unit

washer and overflow bottles

shell has a good drivers side rear quarter

good complete passengers side door, door trim is average

good taillights and rear bar

good boot with wing, wing needs a bit of bog/fibreglass

powersteering and aircon pumps

front crossmember and rack, crossmember might be bent

front 2 stud hubs and uprights

ok steering wheel

good headlining

good working combo switch (indicators and wipers)

ignition barrel with key

stock castor arms

rear half od tailshaft

stock cooler piping

fuel tank with filler, no pump

rear cradle with lsd and shafts, no brakes or hubs

3-3.5in cat back exhaust, single straight thru muffler

stock shocks with hks lowered springs

also have non r33 stuff

pair of S15 stock mags

pair of 300zx stock mags

both painted black with crappy spray cans, would come off prety easy

full set of 300zx brakes and rear 5 stud hubs

front has: calipers, pads, lines and rotors...took pics but they disappeared

rear has: calipers, pads, lines, rotors, 5 STUD HUBS and handbrake cables

everything is located a half hour out of geelong, VIC. but can get it into geelong easy enough. also drive up to east melbourne every second weekend or so. so could bring parts with me to save people the drive

also got other stuff thats in the pics so if i didnt list it just ask

first pic is just to show the height of the car with hks springs....car no longer looks like this

post-54410-1256772887_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256772905_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256772917_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256772932_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256772943_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256772954_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256772969_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256772980_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256772992_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256773082_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256773091_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256773101_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256773112_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256773120_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256773127_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256773306_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256773318_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256773327_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256773337_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256773348_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256773376_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256773555_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256773620_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256773737_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256773684_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256773760_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256773999_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256774008_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256774048_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256774061_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256774353_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256774366_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256774402_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256774488_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256774501_thumb.jpgpost-54410-1256774513_thumb.jpg

post-54410-1256774628_thumb.jpg

Edited by L18PWR
  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

disco_potatoe, sorry everything but the glass and door handle out of the drivers door has been sold

SLY-33, sounds good enough. might be driving up this weekend, so would be up there saturday sunday and maybe a bit of monday. will have to check wether i can get the car though

Edited by L18PWR

When are you coming up to melbourne?

I need these bits:

* Rear Drivers Indicator

* Passenger seat Plastic tab for the recline/fold leaver

* Brake Pedal Rubber if yours was an automatic

* Rear boot lock with swivel badge

Cheers

Ric-3, no, no and yes. but the wood bit is probably a bit warped now

Mendoza, wont be up in melboure for a couple of weeks. and only have the rear indicator, rest of the stuff is sold

trent26, sms sent

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
×
×
  • Create New...