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R34 Gtt Turbo Specs Request


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hi everyone, i would just like to know what are the turbo specs on a stock R34 GTT.

is it a good idea to keep the stock R34 turbo and replace the nylon wheel with a steel one?

i also have a Garret BB T28 suit SR20, 2000k no shaft play, how much should i sell it for?

thanks for your replies.

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if you are modding your car in the future, your stock turbo will only reach 200rwkw at the most and after that it will run out of puff...stock turbo is made out of ceramic, that means u can not boost it past 1bar otherwise u will find pieces of it stuck at your cat converter...

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do some research . the nylon wheel is the compressor wheel .replacing it with a steel one will achieve nothing other than more lag

everything is only what worth someone is willing to pay for it

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I've never been over impressed with high flows. I always preferred my R34 running high boost on a stock turbo with a good ECU and exhaust system. Depends on what you want though, response and medium power or a bit of lag and more power. If I did replace the turbo it would be a good HKS setup. My 2c

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I've never been over impressed with high flows. I always preferred my R34 running high boost on a stock turbo with a good ECU and exhaust system. Depends on what you want though, response and medium power or a bit of lag and more power. If I did replace the turbo it would be a good HKS setup. My 2c

yeh, what i want is response and medium power, but just worried that turbo wont be able to handle boost, ok another stupid question, what is the max boost that should be run on the stock turbo?

thanks for the reply guys, i kno i have stupid questions, just new to the scene and trying to understand.

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As myRB25DETT said; The consensus is that any more than 1-bar is risking destruction due to over-speeding the ceramic turbine, causing either separation from the steel shaft, or the blades to break.

(and bear in mind that 14psi @ the manifold is close to 17psi @ the compressor if you're still using the stock SMIC)

To double-clarify the construction of your snail: - nylon compressor, steel shaft, ceramic composite turbine.

I've heard that replacing the nylon compressor with an alloy one is a sensible thing to do as the nylon blades have a tendency to flex, and eventually break at raised boost levels.

So...

Keep the boost sensible, and the stock unit will last fine. If you want 'more' then an upgrade is desired (or be prepared to replace the stock unit every time you blow it up).

My 2.5c worth (the aussie dollar is pretty good right now...)

:thumbsup:

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  • 4 months later...
As myRB25DETT said; The consensus is that any more than 1-bar is risking destruction due to over-speeding the ceramic turbine, causing either separation from the steel shaft, or the blades to break.

(and bear in mind that 14psi @ the manifold is close to 17psi @ the compressor if you're still using the stock SMIC)

To double-clarify the construction of your snail: - nylon compressor, steel shaft, ceramic composite turbine.

I've heard that replacing the nylon compressor with an alloy one is a sensible thing to do as the nylon blades have a tendency to flex, and eventually break at raised boost levels.

So...

Keep the boost sensible, and the stock unit will last fine. If you want 'more' then an upgrade is desired (or be prepared to replace the stock unit every time you blow it up).

My 2.5c worth (the aussie dollar is pretty good right now...)

:D

i was wondering how much the psi goes down if a front mount is installed... and if i got a side flowing blitz which bolt to were the side mount piping is, so no cross over the engine pipe, would the psi still be the same as a smic?... which would make it beta getting a front mount installed that crosses over the engine or connect to a front facing plenum.. anyone can help on this, nit sure what type of intercooler setup is beta..thanx so much

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this thread has been dug :)

OP6 rear housing (R34 rear) is a good candidate for a highflow IMO - i'm running a hypergear one (check the traders section) and it's a good bit of kit :(

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