Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am going to pick my car up from the tuners this weekend. He says mechanically it came up a treat, but he doesn't like my 4.9:1 ratio R180 LSD at all, on the grounds that the car wants to spend all its time up at a really high rev range, and so it isn't making the most out of it's torque. I don't like the idea of losing acceleration, but he says the diff isn't making the most of the engine's potential anyway.

He's pushing me to convert a 3.9:1 diff to LSD, arguing that his Datsun 1600 ran out of legs on the Phillip Island straight using a 4.4 ratio. His diff builder does the conversion surprisingly cheaply.

The car is a Skyline C210 sedan, with L28, triples, (making maybe 150hp?) marginally lighter than the 1210kg standard. It has a SR20det 5 speed, with the following ratios (I think):

1st: 3.321

2nd: 1.902

3rd: 1.308

4th: 1.000

5th: 0.759

I would like it to remain a quick streeter, that can do the occasional track day with the NDSOC club without being totally put to shame.

Any ideas? 3.9, 4.1, 4.4, leave it alone...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294114-which-diff-for-l28-skyline/
Share on other sites

4.9???

That sounds like a NISMO ratio or the front diff from a 720 4x4 (or were they 5.1's??)

L28 with triples - go for a 3.9 or maybe a 4.1 (3.7 would probably be a bit too tall - 3.54 was too tall for my old L28ET MR30, but man it had some legs!)

I'd expect that a 3.9 would be the standard ratio for the C210 anyway (it was on the MR30)

4.9 is more like the sort of ratio for a rally car - rapid acceleration out of corners, keep the engine up near peak torque.

I reckon something like the 4.1 ('74-on 180B SSS had this ratio) would be a good compromise between acceleration and top speed.

Yeah, go for the 3.9. You've got the same set up as me, and my 3.9 is spot on I reckon. I agree with blind elk, that being a rally diff. You'd have no problem selling it on Bridibella ( rall site). I dynoed my l28 the other day, made 142@ the wheels. The tune was average apparantley,running way to rich. I have 72 grind coming from POWER PLAY which should be in in a week, current grind 68. Then I'm getting it tuned on a dyno, rather than by ear.

4.9 is more like the sort of ratio for a rally car - rapid acceleration out of corners, keep the engine up near peak torque.

I reckon something like the 4.1 ('74-on 180B SSS had this ratio) would be a good compromise between acceleration and top speed.

Except the 180B used an R160...

Well for what it's worth, I'm using a 4.11 in the DR30 with same gear ratios for the likes of Wakefield & Winton, but Eastern Creek I'm going to 3.7 and for the PNV with it's L28et and bags of torque I'm going to use a 3.9 R200 LSD with gear ratios of 1. 3.592, 2. 2.246, 3. 1.415, 4. 1.000, 5. 0.813:1

My theory is on cruise in 5th I will get better driveability with the 3.9/0.813 instead of 4.11/0.833

Cheers, D

say if ya wanted to change the ratios in a r180 from 3.9 to say around 4.11. is there a easy swap from another diff or what else used the r180 in those ratios? just swappin the crown and pinion gear. easy to do it on the r31s bw78's. pinni was 4.11 and skylines were 3.7 and 3.9. then vls were 3.45 i think... wondering if something similar with the r30s etc

cheers..

The SR20 box came with a smashed rally car that I bought complete a couple of years back. I swapped the box, diff, L26 and twin carbs, suspension, wheels and tyres into my fairly stock sedan, and all for the bargain price of $4000... most of which has long since been broken or upgraded anyway.

From memory, the box was a standard C210 five speed, split, with the guts of a second hand SR20 box crammed inside. Apparently the Sr20 internals fitted in "like lego."

'Cause the bell housing is still L-series, the tailshaft and cross-member remain stock C210 items. From memory my gear lever is Datsun, but a slightly different shape to the C210 stick (it's 260Z or something random - a slight L shape rather than straight). Even the gear knob is stock C210.

Ill provide more details ASAP, my receipt file is with the car at the tuners.

My vote is 4.1 :happy:

SR20 box swap involves pulling the sr20 or ca18 bellhousing off the box, getting a L series bellhousing.

1 selector shaft hole in the L series bell needs to be drilled out larger.

You need to pull one of the bearings off the sr20/ca18 box and replace it with the one from a L series box as the L series bearing is slightly smaller in diameter (replace bearing while your there)

Minor metal needs to be taken out off the L series bell due to one of the gears JUST touching it.

For more info, theres a tutorial on ozdat.

I did the swap before the tutorial was made, easy as :)

I am going to experiment with a couple of diffs this weekend. If it feels good, Ill send it off to get the LSD conversion.

However, I cant find a page which mentions which ratio came standard with which car!

Skyline C210 3.9:1?

Datsun 240k 4.1:1?

Mr30 ???

Has anyone committed this stuff to memory?

Also found the receipt for the gearbox conversion. $1300 from Mammi Motors in Vic, including brass button clutch, flywheel machining, swapping the internals over. The Sr20 box was supplied by the previous owner.

So is the R30.

But you won't find many IRS S12's around in Aus.

Your best bet for non-CV is 240/260Z automatic - 3.9:1

I wonder if you can fit R30 axles to C210 arms? I would be very surprised if there was no compatibility there. Changing the arms would probably be easiest, if feasible.

Cheers Ricky, that's a really nice offer. I'll see if I can't first find something a bit closer though - we both know that Vic-WA freight stings a bit! On the topic I've got some seat covers for you... If you're interested PM me your details again and we can ship them over.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initially I thought having a pair of Recaro seats would be a big bonus, it turns out these do get a little uncomfortable on long journeys (my fault, not the seat). I had a look through the GSM Performance website at reclining seats and booked an appointment to visit their show room. I got the Recaro Sportster CS for the R34 from here, was very happy with the service received so of course a re-visit was in order. Unfortunately the two Corbeau seats I had chosen aren't on display but they had 4 other options available. Two seats dug into my back, one dug into my legs and the other was perfect. I also found out that Recaro seats use a larger bolt pattern so some adaption was required. Luckily GSM offer some universal adaptors that should solve this problem. I searched the interwebs for price comparisons and Corbeau themselves were the cheapest at £300 cheaper (for the pair). I asked GSM if they could price match, unfortunately they couldn't. I later received an email saying Corbeau would honour them the same discount, but the purchase was already made. I did however order the brackets from GSM, both arrived on the same day. I started with the passenger side seat, knowing this was going to be a little trial and error. There are 3 mounting holes at the front and 2 at the rear on these JURAN Racing seat rails.  With the adaptor brackets mounted, the allen cap bolts started to push into the seat, NOT GOOD!  The rear mounting holes lined up but there were issues at the front. The holes were 1/2 hole out, so the brackets got a tickle with the drill to modify the holes. The supplied bolts weren't going to be long enough and a spacer was needed to stop the adaptor bars from bending. A local fasteners company supplied be with some nylon spacers and longer bolts (M8x30, although these will be replaced with 35mm long shortly) A before and after I pre-drilled the front bracket before making a start on the driver's seat to save some time. And in no time at all that was in the car too. The all black seats have transformed the interior and these are MUCH more comfortable. The only downside with the new Corbeau seats is I sit a little higher, but I'll happily accept that over discomfort. The Youtube video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyttKPktXA
    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
    • PROBLEM WAS BROKEN COOLANT SENSOR!!! Replaced with a new one and its running mint.
×
×
  • Create New...