Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly, ill try and get some pictures up tomorrow.

Im going overseas in a couple of weeks so need to sell my car.

Car is a Wine red R32 with RB25 conversion. Motor has 80 000 km on the clock. Chassis has 150 000 from memory... ill have to confirm that.

The good

Recently the tensioner let go and my valves bent. When replacing them i decided to clean up the whole top end to had all manufacturing imperfections clean up on the head. Also has new head gasket and head surfaced, valves and stem seals, tensioner and idler pulley. Also new exhaust and inlet mani gasket..... so head is pretty much as good as new.

Anyway so car has RB25 conversion.

Still has RB20 g/box.

Mods

Buddy club N+ coilovers all round - Awesome suspension BTW, by far the best ive driven on in its price range.

Greddy type m front mount

3" exhaust turbo back

Exedy heavy duty organic clutch

Few things inside, trust gear knob, omori din gauges.

Bosch 040 fuel pump

unknown aftermarket rear camber arms

Rear spoiler off hole filled and resprayed

32 gtr rear wheels

Turbo smart plumback BOV

Paint work is great condition, comes up a treat, i really wish i had the time get it professionally cut and polished.

What i'd suggest doing

Some of these may well get done if i can find time before i go:

Left rear wheel bearing to be replaced... i have bearing unit sitting in my bedroom, just gotta get out the and change over.

Left rear camber to be adjusted more + or right more - as they are uneven and pulls to the left..... so basically needs a wheel alignment.

It is running rather rich on standard ECU and pops and farts a bit on de-acceleration and dumping a bit too much fuel when it comes on boost, so i'd at-least get a copgy back tune.

Has a dint about the size of a 5c coin on the boot lid, not very deep at all. also a chip about 2mm in diameter on rear quater panel also another small dint on roof. Other than that body is straight.

I have had the engineering check done for car and paid half of the fee ($250) there are a couple of small things required for the cert plus the remaining $250

So thats all i can think of at the moment. I've tried to explain everything i can think of.

Honestly, this car has been very well looked after. Its rarely driven and serviced regularly with mobil 1.

Id really love to spend a month or so getting it to where i want for sale but i simply dont have time.

Price is $8500 negotiable. Feel free to make offers, most likely, best reasonable offer within 2 weeks will get it.

Located in east burbs of Mlebourne

Edited by vitz_n1

Hey all. Real sorry about the delay with pics. just been flat out and everytime i wash my car it bloody rains.

It is not registered with the 25. Just needs to have the engineering finalised. I have the report and receipt, all the needs to be done is finish off the few things that the engineer requires and pay $250. It also has 6 months reg.

Ill try go get some pics now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
×
×
  • Create New...