Jump to content
SAU Community

Rear-end Knocking Noise

Joshdc

By Joshdc,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Joshdc Enthusiast

Joshdc

Posted
Posted (edited)

Driving home from work tonight, the GTR started making a noise I havent heard before. From inside it sounds to be coming from the rear of the car like the exhaust is slightly bouncing up and down knocking into the metal frame. It only occurs while decelerating but its repetition is timed with the speed of the car so the faster I'm going the more often the noise goes. Almost like something builds up momentum and bounces up and down. It may also occur over bumps but the R33 is so loud I cant quite tell (and my hearing is subject to the placebo effect). The noise does not occur while accelerating or under brakes, gears and clutch position were irrelevant.

I jacked it up and started wobbling things trying to work it out but haven't found anything obvious enough to trigger my limited mechanical skills. Looked in the wheel arches for anything rubbing or stuck to the wheels but no. Checked all fluids levels were ok, nothing leaking (except airconditioning condensation), no eccesive knocking showing on the powerfc...

It's loud enough to concern me, I'm sure people driving next to me can hear it.

Any ideas?

Edited by Joshdc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294230-rear-end-knocking-noise/
Share on other sites
Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted
Driving home from work tonight, the GTR started making a noise I havent heard before. From inside it sounds to be coming from the rear of the car like the exhaust is slightly bouncing up and down knocking into the metal frame. It only occurs while decelerating but its repetition is timed with the speed of the car so the faster I'm going the more often the noise goes. Almost like something builds up momentum and bounces up and down. It may also occur over bumps but the R33 is so loud I cant quite tell (and my hearing is subject to the placebo effect). The noise does not occur while accelerating or under brakes, gears and clutch position were irrelevant.

I jacked it up and started wobbling things trying to work it out but haven't found anything obvious enough to trigger my limited mechanical skills. Looked in the wheel arches for anything rubbing or stuck to the wheels but no. Checked all fluids levels were ok, nothing leaking (except airconditioning condensation), no eccesive knocking showing on the powerfc...

It's loud enough to concern me, I'm sure people driving next to me can hear it.

Any ideas?

do you have adjustable rear upper control arms? mine are noisy compared to the stock bushs+control arm

-D

Joshdc Enthusiast

Joshdc

Posted
  • Author
Posted
do you have adjustable rear upper control arms? mine are noisy compared to the stock bushs+control arm

-D

Stock arms as far as I know, the bushs arent stock, but that was changed wtih the suspension a few months ago and hasnt made the noise before.

MYCEF3 Collaborator

MYCEF3

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was thinking Diff as well!!!

Happened the the cef one day, was driving on one day n the diff was noisy! and then it got noisier then it went bang as i was doin a Ubolt! after had really loud bangs on excleration and deceleration the faster i went the quicker the bangs! Checked it out as i crawled home (everyone stareing) And found the diff was f**ked. Had to go out n buy a new diff

1.5 way LSD :P

Edited by MYCEF3
MYCEF3 Collaborator

MYCEF3

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah same i hope it isnt the diff as well!

If its youv looked at all the exhaust, coilies and other stuff that could knock or hit, the other is the diff (only coz the banging ur hearing)

Edited by MYCEF3
  • 5 months later...
Joshdc Enthusiast

Joshdc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Woops I forgot to post the resolution.

Luckily I found the source before I lost a wheel...

Turns out i am an idiot and didnt tighten a couple of wheel nuts properly. Caused this noise for a good week of driving - all good now though.

Thanks every for the suggestions.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Me, if I ever floor the car
    • Kinkstaah
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • joshuaho96
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...