Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it means as i said earlier... you have either a LEAK or a HEADGASKET problem.

a header tank will not solve this.

if you have done the tests that i and others have mentioned and you are still losing coolant then you have a LEAK or HEADGASKET problem. the heater core which has a flowing path of coolent thro it is one of many possible places for a leak to occur.

stop asking silly questions and start doing some real tests on your car to find the problem.

it means as i said earlier... you have either a LEAK or a HEADGASKET problem.

a header tank will not solve this.

if you have done the tests that i and others have mentioned and you are still losing coolant then you have a LEAK or HEADGASKET problem. the heater core which has a flowing path of coolent thro it is one of many possible places for a leak to occur.

stop asking silly questions and start doing some real tests on your car to find the problem.

I done pressure test no leaking

I changed a cap it doesn't help

the headgasket is fine, because motor is not taking any coolant.

I cleaned the overflow bottle.

I bleeded system

as i said on the topic, it was not losing coolant, the coolant just not fully go back to radiator when cold. I know my question is silly, the problem look very simple, but it just not simple to fix.

Edited by Nosure

did you check the turbo water lines? my s15 in the past (including GTR's) have solid lines i think for water and oil - when under heat, metal expands and moves slightly which can crack the lines

my s15 lost coolant and couldnt figure out why: we pressurised the system and nothing until we put it up onto a hoist and ran the car in-gear = water began leaking out of the turbo water lines.

apparently common; my fix was braided lines to replace the solid ones.

not sure if this is ur problem but though id throw it in anyways, might jst get lucky - all the best mate

-Johnny

did you check the turbo water lines? my s15 in the past (including GTR's) have solid lines i think for water and oil - when under heat, metal expands and moves slightly which can crack the lines

my s15 lost coolant and couldnt figure out why: we pressurised the system and nothing until we put it up onto a hoist and ran the car in-gear = water began leaking out of the turbo water lines.

apparently common; my fix was braided lines to replace the solid ones.

not sure if this is ur problem but though id throw it in anyways, might jst get lucky - all the best mate

-Johnny

thank you, but my turbo is T517Z which is non-water cooled. :(

i have the sae problem as you the car i not loseing coolent what it is doing is when the car gets hot the water expands into the overflow bottle and then when it cools it is only taking about half of it back so when you drive the car a few times it fills the over flow and gets hot cause it not taking the water back

so far i have changed radiator thermostat tryed no themostat changed water pump checked flow through block

the only thing i have left to check is the head gasket i think under load it has a sall leak and is blowing presure into the water side which is overflowing the overflow

Sounds like your head gasket to me??

Is the water mixing in the oil (check oil cap) or oil mixing in the water check rad...

If not any white smoke at all??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We will review wtf is going on, but if you made any donations let me know and i will follow it up with the admins
    • See, that button sounds like perfection Duncan! My eyes really don't like light shining at them from a dash when I'm driving. Being part red colourblind, I've found for most cars that I can change colours on, I set everything to red, so my eyes see the elast amount of colour! I miss normal gauges in cars
    • bro, knowing the Japanese in  the 90's, i wouldn't be surprised if they shared components across their model lineup.
    • Maaaan so many "little" things  i rly hope my old RB20 would be "ok" and not too bad. I try to learn what and what not do i need. I look at crossmember at it looks different...even parts numbers are different. Wiring and all that i rly do not know...yeah someone mentioned the speedo thing. On that yoke clip. I rly do not know what can and cant be done "custom" so that is why iam asking to know and not be suprised 馃檪  I know what it looks like  
    • Oh, there's also the gearbox crossmember which will probably be different between the small box and the big box, and the wiring loom will probably need to be modified, because the plugs for the switches etc, will probably be different. And I think the speedo on the small box R34s is from somwhere stupid, like the diff, possibly, so you'd need to work out what needs to be done about that (assuming it is different). I think the thing you need to realise is that the front end of that yoke is a large hollow tube with splines on the inside that mates with the splines on the box's output shaft. It is a dedicated thing - not available "aftermarket". They were made to suit that box, by the car's OEM.
  • Create New...