Cold starts

[Thunderbolt]

Hi guys,

Having a few problems with cold starts. I have a lot of problems starting it, and when I get it going, it runs rough for a few seconds before settling down to a smooth idle.

While on the road it is fine. The ignition module has been replaced recently. I have changed the oil recently and changed the plugs. I have run some injector cleaner through the last tank of fuel. Nothing has fixed the problem.

I took it into the mechanics during the week, and they could not find what was wrong, but reccomended a dynotune.

Anybody got any ideas?

[adam 32]

i have this problem too..... and made a thread about it a while ago so you might want to search for it as i think there were some answers there. incidentally i still havent fixed my problem but its better with new plugs and a service...

[Jay95R33]

I remember reading somewhere of somethat had a problem simular to this.

It ended up being one of the temp sensors.

When it was cold it thought it was warm, and wouldn't richen the mixtures up, so it would start.

Might be worth a look into.

J

[400HP]

I think this is actually normal. This has been happening in my skyline ever since i bought it. It seems a bit better for about a week when i got my plugs replaced.

Anyway its not a big issue as its jsut when it starts up and its fine after that so I wolnd't worry about it.

I have also dynoed my car recently and all seems to be normal.

[Thunderbolt]

Originally posted by 400HP

I think this is actually normal. This has been happening in my skyline ever since i bought it. It seems a bit better for about a week when i got my plugs replaced.

Anyway its not a big issue as its jsut when it starts up and its fine after that so I wolnd't worry about it.

I have also dynoed my car recently and all seems to be normal.

This is not normal because it used to start up first time and settle down for a smooth idle straight away. Now I have to try 5 or 6 times to get it going.

[JimX]

I had a similar problem. Car would sometimes stall but not often, but it would almost always take a long time to kick over initially and then run really rough for the first minute or 2.

I reset the ECU, and problem was instantly solved! I also gained an extra 50km or so per tank and it had more power. Don't know if it will help you, but worth a try if you haven't done it already.

I just wish I didn't wait a whole month before resetting the ECU, I feel like I've wasted so much fuel

[OOHSAM]

Yeah ECU is worth a shot. Would it have anything to do with AFM...These things cuase all sorts of untimley porblems. Maybe worth a shot.

[Bozz]

Have you had an immobiliser installed recently?

The ignition barrel has two wires to start the engine, one goes to the starter motor, the other goes to the ECU, pin 43 to be exact.

If this wire is not getting 12 volts when you are cranking the engine, those exact symptoms appear. Put a multimeter on pin 43 and get an assistant to start the car. If it goes to 12 volts then you've found your problem. Return the car to the monkey's who installed the immobiliser/alarm and get them to fix it.

This is the ECU pinout for the RB20xxx and RB25xxx family of engines:

http://members.optushome.com.au/pisstnbrok...CR33_Pinout.pdf

EDIT - I'd first try the ECU reset since it's much easier....