Jump to content
SAU Community

Track Report: Rota Rims And P-cup Slicks..


Recommended Posts

Whilst wandering around the pits at Bathurst I noticed that Tony Alford's GT-R now had 18" wheels on it compared with the 19's he had been running to date. I asked Peter West from the Mag Wheel Centre in Richmond what the go was and he told me that Tony used to run 19s in order to clear the Alcon V8 Supercar brakes he had on the front of the GTR. Peter had now supplied him with new AutoArt 18"s which cleared the supercar brakes...just. I figure if they clear these brakes they should be a shoe in to have a decent clearance with the standard Brembos. And don't necessarily quote me on this but I have the figure of $2800 etched in my mind. I overheard it whilst I was pawing a set but am not 100% on this. Perhaps it was $3800 but at $2800 they would be a serious bargain. I probably won't be looking at getting a set for another 12 months but some of you maye be interested in these as an alternative to the TE37s.

http://www.autoartwheels.com/pages/assembly/assembly.html

  • Replies 226
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Peter West from the Mag Wheel Centre Richmond would like someone with a standard R35 to go in with his car so he can measure up the calipers/hubs and produce some drawings so that he can determine the best 18" wheel combo for the GT-R. I'm not in Melbourne but hopefully someone local is interested enough to help him out. We would all benefit from this data as it could also be used to compare with other wheels and their brake clearances.

If anyone is interested please contact Peter at The Mag Wheel Centre 15 Palmer Parade Cremorne / Richmond Vic. Ph: 94211266 / 0412 484 972

And they were $3800 a set, not $2800. :)

Edited by fungoolie

V8 Supercars actually run rotors that are 4mm smaller in diameter then std R35s, and i am pretty sure you will find the Alcons that they run hug the rotor a little tighter then the OE Brembos. So no guarantee they will fit over R35 brakes, if they are marginal on a car running Supercars brakes then ..... it would be worst if running the Mines 400mm upgrade etc.

Be interesting to see how they go, I could easily be wrong

Edited by Roy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done smoke test and can’t see any leak on high or low side.   checked pump and fluid can flow through. Removed the high pressure from steering and did smoke test and same on low side, no leak.   puzzled. Thinking why if it was all ok it suddenly went as car was off road for a year. Don’t want to disassemble pump yet as i can see fluid / air( compressor) can flow through with no issues
    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
×
×
  • Create New...