Jump to content
SAU Community

Manual Boost Cntrl + Standard Rb25det Turbo

Stealthynsa

By Stealthynsa,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
Posted

hey guys im sending a turbo away for repairs so im putting the stock turbo on,

i have a turbosmart manual boost control and i wanted to know how much psi it runs when "Fully closed"

and how much u get for each click "roughly" as i dont have a boost gauge and cant get 1 untill next week

how much psi/clicks should i goto safely with a standard setup?

and should i put the PFC in "standard" and tweak the injectors or should i not do that.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Agreed ^^ - massive backyard fail.

No boost gauge = DO NOT ADJUST.

Every car/setup is different. Play with fire, you will get burned.

Also do not go putting in injectors and hammering away thinking its going to go OK on the stock map.

Have the boost configured when you get the tune - not before. Simple as that.

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

No way around it, get a boost gauge. Cheap ones from autobarn/supercrap only run around $40-50 anyway, very easy to install yourself too. There's no excuse to not have one I think.

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Agreed ^^ - massive backyard fail.

No boost gauge = DO NOT ADJUST.

Every car/setup is different. Play with fire, you will get burned.

Also do not go putting in injectors and hammering away thinking its going to go OK on the stock map.

Have the boost configured when you get the tune - not before. Simple as that.

sorry i didnt realise i said i was putting injectors in and then playing with the pfc. :D

all i said was should i tweak the injectors aka "standard injectors" if i run higher boost levels...

so the car doesnt run lean.

but neways ill wait and grab that boost gauge before i change anything.

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
this is a fail on so many levels

do you even know how a maunal boost controller works ? go and do some research

tell us what mods you have to your car

at the moment i only have my 3" turbo back exhaust and a fmic on the car.

i have so many more parts here but im going on holidays so its a job for later.

Edited by Stealthynsa

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      First/Second Post

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • soviet_merlin
      Oem radio & steering wheel shroud for r33 (vic)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...