Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Remove the following,

Brake master, ABS unit, brake lines.

Replace above items with those from a non ABS model.

I would assume that S13 lines would fit the cefiro. You can use S13 brake master (or use an R32 brake master if you have skyline brakes).

Alternatively, getting lines made between the brake master and wheel wells won't set you back much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294530-removing-abs/#findComment-4914084
Share on other sites

Well I am looking at doing the same due to now spungy and gargling sound when brakes are applied ( Im thinking booster need replacing) and also to to piss off the ABS unit giving me some more room under to bonnet.

Here are a few pic I have taken of my ABS,

I can see two line coming out of the Brake Master going to the ABS unit and the two lines on the right are the ones going to the brakes. Now my understanding is if you cut and reattach those line taking out the ABS will this work? Or do you still need to replace the Brake Master.

post-5013-1257503087_thumb.jpg

post-5013-1257503105_thumb.jpg

post-5013-1257503133_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294530-removing-abs/#findComment-4922236
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 馃榿 Definitely the car
    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It鈥檒l be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
  • Create New...