Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The guy that tuned my car (an old-school Datsun rally driver) convinced me that my car was a menace to drive on account of it being too low in the back and having terrible bump-steer every time the rear end bottomed out.

He told me that he had some "suitable" springs, and supplied and fit them for next to nothing.

I concede that the car does handle much better now... but the height in the rear is back up to standard, and the car looks kind of odd with it's butt sticking up in the air (although apparently the view of my spinning tailshaft when you drive behind me is kind of cool).

Previously the car was on Pedders red "low" springs - so they are out.

My old rally wreck was on yellow King springs which I sold off cheap before I ever tried driving on due to their diabolical reputation, although they did look to be somewhere between high and far too low in terms of ride height. Also I have heard that cutting a springs to lower the ride height is a really stupid idea because it affects the handling of the car (but I won't even pretend that I understand the physics of why that is).

There are springs available from other Datsuns e.g. 240K that will physically fit my car - but the K is slightly lighter than the C210... is this a big issue?

Anyone got any ideas or recommendations?

It's nice to be finally making improvements to my car rather than just repairing the broken bits for once!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294599-c210-ride-height/
Share on other sites

The main problem in lowering a Datsun/Nissan with the A-arm rear suspension is that you start to toe-out the rear end. Lowering lowers the centre of gravity of the car (good thing, generally), but also affects the roll centre (probably a good thing).

The K springs are probably a softer spring, which is probably advantageous to get the arse to squat under acceleration. From experience, super heavy rear springs prevent the rear end putting power to the ground, especially in the wet.

Cutting springs is not a problem, as long as the spring can remain captive at full droop. It gives a "stronger" spring as well.

Agreed; the adapter set up sounds unreal... did you buy it or make it?

I read some of the other posts re: s13 conversions, but missed some fairly vital info. Do I need to purchase the S13 coilover spring and shock as an assembly, or will the S13 spring fit over my existing C210 shock? Also is there a spring... tension/weight/setting??? (someone suggested 6kg for the rear) that I need to ask for?

Gordie, if your car is handling well, I'll try and copy what you have done to the letter.

Good to see things are going well with the Datto for you man,

The coilovers should come as a complete set, with the spring on an adjustable perch. Most should come with adjustable shocks too I would think?.

6kg springs should be ok, don't go much harder if you like your spine the way it is.

If you can get some spec's up for those adaptors I might be able to knock some up at work, measurements would have to be spot on tho. Thinking about doing the same with mine.

i bought the adaptors off a guy who had them in his hr31.

but any machine place you be able to knock some up easy as.

just went and took some pics of what i'll be using.

There are the adaptors

05112009897.jpg

05112009898.jpg

05112009899.jpg

c210 v's s13 coilovers.

05112009900.jpg

05112009901.jpg

and the adaptors on the s13 coilovers

05112009902.jpg

this is the ride hight with the stock springs

101_0088.jpg

(this is when i first got the white car a few years ago)

c210 has 3 bolts on top at the rear. s13 coilovers have 2. so you'll have to drill a hole up top to fit it. that old yellow parts car i sold to nick had this done.

you could just swap the top hats off the suspension?

just undo the 1-2 nuts in the middle and your good. and if you've removed stock springs from a shock before you would know u need spring compressors so the springs dont knock u out.

Edited by Dan_J
you could just swap the top hats off the suspension?

just undo the 1-2 nuts in the middle and your good. and if you've removed stock springs from a shock before you would know u need spring compressors so the springs dont knock u out.

yep, you can do it that way, but if you have some good quality coilovers you will lose the pillowball bearing set up, and possable the damper control knob.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
×
×
  • Create New...