Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Problem After Highway Driving

Kane_R32

By Kane_R32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kane_R32 Experienced

Kane_R32

Posted
Posted

So my mate has a R33 RB25det manual.

Mods include 3inch cat back and turbo timer. Standard boost without going through the solonoid (7psi?).

Everything else its stock mechanical wise.

He rang me today and said once he got of the m7 doing the 100km/h speed limit when he back off in gear, very loud pops can be heard.

So I intially thought it might have been the normal popping sometimes associated with a bigger exhaust.

These are loud crisp pops and sound to be in sync. I mean pop...pop...pop... not pop......popopopop.........pop. Sort of thing.

Also now when starting the car it will stall unless the pedal is held for 5 seconds and then the car gains idle to 800-950rpm.

No check light has come on yet. Checked all vacuum lines, not leaks and everything seems to be in good working order visually.

Any thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294703-r33-problem-after-highway-driving/
Share on other sites
defari Grand Master

defari

Posted
Posted (edited)

mine is similar except mine doesnt stall and the pops aren't in 'sync'.... when i get off the gas say at 6-7000rpm and revs drop to about 4000 it makes a loud pop + flame then a few little pops... i think its just the big exhaust (3inch straight through into 4inch muffler) + mine is running a tad bit rich hence the flamage..

edit: car is a series 2 r33

Edited by defari
Kane_R32 Experienced

Kane_R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh this is deffinately not the over rich sound poping.

If you drive in 2nd @ 60 and back off the whole way on deacel its pops the same loudness like. Same sort of pop noise and its crisp not a rich sounding pop pop.

Dorigecko Proficient

Dorigecko

Posted
Posted

Check fuel pump and lines. if you gotta feed it to get the revs back so it doesn't die, and it's backfiring (usually a sound associated with not getting fuel - bare in mind it IS an rb25det with standard computer), then it sounds to be a fuel issue. fuel pump, lines, AFM could also be outta whack.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Backfire is generally excess fuel getting into the exhaust and being ignited by the heat. Since the injectors shut down at full decell, it must be a leaking injector feeding fuel during decell. Get the injectors cleaned.

It may also be that the injectors are not shutting down, and that is usually a result of the TPS getting out of whack and not sending the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU. Check the TPS for 0 ohms at "throttle closed".

Kane_R32 Experienced

Kane_R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK quick ecutalk scan showed:

tps: .12v @ idle, 4.3v 100% throttle

afm: 1.2v @ idle - forgot 100%

02 is deffinatley stuffed. it sometimes adjusts from .20 to .40 but mainly sits on .00

Would the ecu see this as lean or would it ignore if tps and afm read full throttle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      First/Second Post

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • soviet_merlin
      Oem radio & steering wheel shroud for r33 (vic)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...