Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 164
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Troy, just to confirm our phone convo.

I've claimed the standard front bar + instrument cluster pending payment.

Cheers mate!

Son.

PS. sorry to those that missed out.

So you sell something that I've said I'll take to someone else pending payment?! I thought it was sold to me pending payment. Nice work :)

So you sell something that I've said I'll take to someone else pending payment?! I thought it was sold to me pending payment. Nice work :)

I am very sorry you feel like that. However when you said you would take it, it was assumed at the list price. Then you offered $200 to which I did not accept due to already having an offer at asking price plus postage. So if you confirmed and or offered the price I was asking it would have been yours. Sorry for the confusion but I can't hold a part for someone when a price has not been agreed. I will take partial responsibilty and be more clear in the future. I'm trying to keep everybody happy.

hey mate, would you mind posting up photos of the Washer bottle please?

(preferably removed?)

cheers.

Nigel

Keeping the:

Washer bottle

Radiator overflow

Front inner plastic guards

Std Ecu

for my other GTR.

Cheers.

GTR Mats SOLD

I am very sorry you feel like that. However when you said you would take it, it was assumed at the list price. Then you offered $200 to which I did not accept due to already having an offer at asking price plus postage. So if you confirmed and or offered the price I was asking it would have been yours. Sorry for the confusion but I can't hold a part for someone when a price has not been agreed. I will take partial responsibilty and be more clear in the future. I'm trying to keep everybody happy.

Sorry, but I did not offer you $200 - you must be confusing me with someone else. I was happy to pay the asking price and had only asked you for your best price for shipping to Sydney.

Anyways, doesn't matter. It's just not a very good/honest way to do things.

Sorry, but I did not offer you $200 - you must be confusing me with someone else. I was happy to pay the asking price and had only asked you for your best price for shipping to Sydney.

Anyways, doesn't matter. It's just not a very good/honest way to do things.

Sorry you are quite correct. I was confused with "line 3's" post.

Doing our best. :) If you want something else, will do you a good price

Front, Rear Brembos

Front Discs

Front, Rear brake lines

Front, Rear Kevlar/Ceramic Pads

SOLD pending payment

Edited by BoostdR

Will be home after 2pm today. Call me or troy for address

Come for a browse, bring your tools

Matt

PS we always needed a U-pull-it yard for imports =)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • 40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
    • Hello,   My name if Frederick, i'm 30 years old and I live in Belgium, Europe! I used to have a Nissan 370z daily but since I got a company car I turned that into my seattime driftcar. About 3 years ago I also wanted something older with more feel, so I got an R32 GTST with an rb26 engine. I am now getting the rb built to have around 800hp and it's close to being finished. I'm very excited for how it will drive and how driveable it will be! Regards, Fred!
    • Appreciate the insight! Talked to some local folks and they basically told me "it's not that deep." As long as the threading on the inside matches what's at the steering rack, everything else can be constructed-to-fit. There are full aftermarket kits I can use - probably better for my car overall since it's lowered.  Example: GKTech M14 Super Adjustable Inner Tie Rod Set - Nissan Skyline R32 R33 R33, 240SX, 300ZX, 350Z / Infiniti G35 M14I-TROD-2 gktM145-TROD gktM14I-TROD - Concept Z Performance (These can be packaged with their "high misalignment" tie rod ends).
×
×
  • Create New...