Jump to content
SAU Community

Defect Help

Ps33

By Ps33,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ps33 Apprentice

Ps33

Posted
Posted

Okay, just got myself sent to regency..

The 2 things I got defected for were missing front bumper (Was gonna happen sooner or later, waiting for a new one) And my blowoff valve.

Now, the thing I don't get is that apparently the blowoff valve is not meant to release gases into the atmosphere... Umm it's a stock blowoff valve so how the hell do I get it not to make noise?

I don't think it's possible, only thing I can think off is run everything off the wastegate...

But does anyone know how to turn them down, or is the cop a retard?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294744-defect-help/
Share on other sites
Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

1. Have you used the search function rather than go straight out and start a new topic? This has been covered dozens of times before.

2 .You shouldn't be being sent to Regency for 2 defective items - should be a cop shop visit. Go to your local cop shop and complain about the defect notice, then make a personal complaint about the officer for being a tosspot.

3. Factory blow-off valves are legal, as long as the return plumbing is intact.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294744-defect-help/#findComment-4916318
Share on other sites
Ps33 Apprentice

Ps33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Didn't think about searching a topic, sorry :P

And I might use that idea, go to the cop shop and complain about it.. But the cop didn't look at the blowoff valve, it was the noise he was complaining about.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294744-defect-help/#findComment-4916324
Share on other sites
D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted (edited)

they can send you to regency for 1 item if they like it's up to their discretion and will depend on what the defect is for. The 3 defect thing is that if they find 3 or more defects then they have to send you to regency.

I don't think it's possible, only thing I can think off is run everything off the wastegate...

What do you mean by this?

And if it is still the factory BOV and it still have the hose running back to the intake then you will be fine for that, but really you shouldn't have been driving around without a front bar.

Edited by D_Stirls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294744-defect-help/#findComment-4916325
Share on other sites
ovrtym33 Proficient

ovrtym33

Posted
Posted
2 .You shouldn't be being sent to Regency for 2 defective items - should be a cop shop visit. Go to your local cop shop and complain about the defect notice,

why shouldn't he be defected for no frontbar???

you are an idiot for even driving around without one, it was bound to happen sooner or later

fair enough going down to police station and complaining about the standard blowoff valve but when they see u got no front bar they are just gonna LAUGH at you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294744-defect-help/#findComment-4916335
Share on other sites
Ps33 Apprentice

Ps33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
why shouldn't he be defected for no frontbar???

you are an idiot for even driving around without one, it was bound to happen sooner or later

fair enough going down to police station and complaining about the standard blowoff valve but when they see u got no front bar they are just gonna LAUGH at you

Yeah I know the front bar was bound to happen sooner or later, waiting for a new one to be ordered.

Was just making short trips, to and from work.. And this one was to the servo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294744-defect-help/#findComment-4916339
Share on other sites
D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted (edited)
A mate of mine told me you can take the valve out, and run the turbo straight into the wastegate.. Not entirely sure about it.

And I told the cop it was stock, twice.

You do know that BOV and waste gate are used to achieve different things. Legally you need to retain both, although the ADR's don't state anything about a force inducted car needing a BOV (although they will claim it's a emissions requirement), but hey it's not like regency don't make the rules up as they go.

Edited by D_Stirls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294744-defect-help/#findComment-4916351
Share on other sites
Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted

there is a defected thread in regards to all the questions, answers and issues with defects mate....thats a fair defect IMHO as no front bar posses risk to pedestrians apparently....if you run one over....

as for the BOV part just dont worry about it mate....the cop defected you because it made some noise ahh well its standard and its supposed to

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294744-defect-help/#findComment-4916619
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...