Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

which one? ive been ragging on rota and other cheap shit for years.

Yes indeed.... & unfortunately the rest of the us, yet again, have to put up with your unsubstantiated, one-eyed hatred for anything that is not a forged Rays wheel. If you are a metallurgist and/or have actually strength tested these rims feel free to comment otherwise stop posting in this thread as you're adding nothing of value to the topic.

:) Well the search continues, whilst trolling Fleaflay for wheels I came across another wheel that I liked, it was boldly titled Rays Nismo LM4 $1800.and a few bucks, it's somewhat similar to the Koya Drift Tek in appearance.

On reading further I found out the copy re reading " ROTA Rays Nismo LM4 Style Wheels " ah hem :blush: notwithstanding the obvious poetic advertising licence does anyone have any oppinions on these fellas ?? or Rota wheels in general ?

Yes indeed.... & unfortunately the rest of the us, yet again, have to put up with your unsubstantiated, one-eyed hatred for anything that is not a forged Rays wheel. If you are a metallurgist and/or have actually strength tested these rims feel free to comment otherwise stop posting in this thread as you're adding nothing of value to the topic.

and i guess i have to be a scatologist to know that the stuff that comes out my arse is shit.

the guy asked about the weight of the wheel, i told him. i have weighed them, and have also seen them first hand fail with a bit of hard driving.

:) Well the search continues, whilst trolling Fleaflay for wheels I came across another wheel that I liked, it was boldly titled Rays Nismo LM4 $1800.and a few bucks, it's somewhat similar to the Koya Drift Tek in appearance.

On reading further I found out the copy re reading " ROTA Rays Nismo LM4 Style Wheels " ah hem :) notwithstanding the obvious poetic advertising licence does anyone have any oppinions on these fellas ?? or Rota wheels in general ?

and this is what it comes down to, regardless of whether u care about quality, is there no shame in the import community that we have no issues buying products that are just shameless copies of quality manufacturers that spend the $$ creating original parts? companies creating original products and furthering development are dying around us from the flooding of cheap junk on the market, but then when we see any of the ill effects of this, u know who will be the first to complain.

and i guess i have to be a scatologist to know that the stuff that comes out my arse is shit.

in your case the shit is coming out of the other end....continually. Do everyone a favour and stop posting the same sewerage time and time again. Witnessed a first hand failure....yeah right, more unsustantiated scaremongering. I've done many, many laps of qr on semis and my drift teks are still going strong.

Well the search continues, whilst trolling Fleaflay for wheels I came across another wheel that I liked, it was boldly titled Rays Nismo LM4 $1800.and a few bucks, it's somewhat similar to the Koya Drift Tek in appearance.

:P

I've done many, many laps of qr on semis and my drift teks are still going strong.

and if i had a gold star, id be sure to award it to you.

funnily enough a lot of people dont have issues with G4/D2 suspension, so i guess that means they are awesome and that everyone who has reported a failure is talking shit.

funnily enough a lot of people dont have issues with G4/D2 suspension, so i guess that means they are awesome and that everyone who has reported a failure is talking shit.

Since when has G4/D2 suspension been the subject of this topic :) - last time I checked it was drift teks....still doesn't backup what you're saying. Here's a deal for you => you go out to a track and document an actual failure of drift teks caused by poor casting/design fault, post all the relevant details including pics up on the forum here and I'll buy you a carton of beer...I reckon that's a pretty safe bet my end.

drifteks are copies of Rays LMGT4's

Ah-ha- :) thanks for that, the ones that further piqued my interest in are actualy the "ROTA Rays Nismo LM4 Style Wheels" and ambush advertising aside these are $1800 and a few bucks as apposed to the KOYA Drift Teks at $1040/1060.00 17"x8" fitted and balanced (which are very similar lookin) it's interesting to see the cost difference which made me wonder if ROTA are a superior wheel to Drift Teks in some way.

It would be wonderfull if there were a wheel buyers guide giving unbiased facts and comparisons out there or even just the facts would be a start like- weight, fabrication method, finish/colours , available sizes, supliers and approx RRP.

Like thats going to happen ho hum sure it is.

Since when has G4/D2 suspension been the subject of this topic :P - last time I checked it was drift teks....still doesn't backup what you're saying. Here's a deal for you => you go out to a track and document an actual failure of drift teks caused by poor casting/design fault, post all the relevant details including pics up on the forum here and I'll buy you a carton of beer...I reckon that's a pretty safe bet my end.

since when did i say drift teks were faulty? i said they were low quality, they are manufactured cheap, creating low density metal that doesnt have the strength properties of a good quality wheel, this means to get even a safe amount of strength they need to add more metal, this adds weight and gives u a heavy wheel. so u get a heavier wheel, which isnt as strong, which just adds to the problem, as there is more mass to move, transferring more force into the metal, meaning they are more vulnerable to hits, coupled with the low strength means they just cant take impact like a good wheel.

this is basic stuff, so u should be keeping up.

my mate broke his drift teks on the corner 1 apex at mallala, went in too shallow and one corner caught the raised apex and got a nice impact to the wheel, enough to break it. my wheels (OZ racing) are the same size, same size tyre, same car (32 4dr) and same spring rate (6kg) have hit that apex time after time, sometimes getting air off it, i dont worry about it anymore as not once has it even hinted any damage to the wheel. in fact the only way i could even get the slightest amount of damage to my wheels was to blow a tyre, have it strip off the wheel to the side, and for me to head into a ditch sideways on bare rim at about 90k's, even then it was a barely visible flat spot in the out rim, doesnt even effect the balance or cause any vibration.

oh btw, my rims are 17 years old as well.

I wouldn't be paying $1800 for Rota's

Same.

I remember when I was looking for wheels for one of my cars, and I wanted Work Emotion CR Kais. ROTA's were only fractionally cheaper than Work's, new for new.

ROTA Torques = $1850

Work Emotion CR Kai = $2200.

I'll admit that $350 is not an unsubstantial difference, but it's still not enough of a cost saving for me to go for a wheel with so many anecdotal failures over a wheel that doesn't.

since when did i say drift teks were faulty? i said they were low quality, they are manufactured cheap, creating low density metal that doesnt have the strength properties of a good quality wheel, this means to get even a safe amount of strength they need to add more metal, this adds weight and gives u a heavy wheel. so u get a heavier wheel, which isnt as strong, which just adds to the problem, as there is more mass to move, transferring more force into the metal, meaning they are more vulnerable to hits, coupled with the low strength means they just cant take impact like a good wheel.

this is basic stuff, so u should be keeping up.

my mate broke his drift teks on the corner 1 apex at mallala, went in too shallow and one corner caught the raised apex and got a nice impact to the wheel, enough to break it. my wheels (OZ racing) are the same size, same size tyre, same car (32 4dr) and same spring rate (6kg) have hit that apex time after time, sometimes getting air off it, i dont worry about it anymore as not once has it even hinted any damage to the wheel. in fact the only way i could even get the slightest amount of damage to my wheels was to blow a tyre, have it strip off the wheel to the side, and for me to head into a ditch sideways on bare rim at about 90k's, even then it was a barely visible flat spot in the out rim, doesnt even effect the balance or cause any vibration.

oh btw, my rims are 17 years old as well.

You may as well call them faulty with references such as "relatively weak" and "not very strong" - facts are facts, they are a cast wheel, priced as such and do not pretend to be a big dollar forged wheel. That said, they are still strong enough for throwing around a track if you want a cheap option. If I was to follow your line of reasoning I'd argue your Oz rims are weak compared to custom forged titanium rims (if they made them) - but that's stupid. Your idea of what strength is required in a wheel is massive overkill based on ......well, nothing. This is the same reason why you got flamed in the Rota thread....evidently you're a slow learner and/or supremely ignorant to be posting the same garbage in yet another wheel thread again.

So your "mate" broke one at the track......is this the same mate that had his kidneys removed in Vegas and was left in a bath of ice?? Again, my offer still stands for a free carton.

I'll leave you alone to continue your vendetta of misinformation as obviously this is a hangup that runs pretty deep with you.

well you wouldn't buy your mrs cheap jewellry would you?

Given the prices of second hand JDM wheels at parts places etc, I honestly don't see the point in buying new el cheapo rims that are guaranteed to be fitted on 426246226 worse looking cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...