Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1992 S13 silvia K's .. WAS sr20det 5spd

now r32 series 2 rb20det and gearbox, 3 Puk brass button clutch with 2000lb pressure plate, 600hp bosch motorsport fuel pump, HKS 2530 turbocharger, HKS GTR intercooler (100mm core), Tein HA coilovers, Nismo 2 way mechanical lsd 4.1 ratio, Pod filter, MINES tuned ECU, R32 GTST radiator and 8" thermatic fan, Turbo back 3" exhaust, Nardi Torino steering wheel, Greddy boost gauge, Sony Xplode deck, R33 skyline floor mats (better than standard s13 ones anyway).

Standard rims will be fitted.

Rego till Jan 2004 (wa)

Made 285.1rwhp at SST on sunday with afr's in the mid 10's (10.6 - very rich)

with a tune it will do 300 or just over

Motor had 74000km when fitted, now just under 76000. New timing belt, Fan belt and power steering belt, new alternator and waterpump. New clutch slave cylender. (all fitted before engine was installed)

Potential for mid 12's.

Problems: Needs a new gearbox as there is no 3rd or reverse, and it needs a respray as it was key'd a while back.

Pm me or email me for photos. [email protected]

$10,000 Firm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29497-rb20-s13-for-sale-or-swap/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Your car sound fully sick mate. Why you sellin it? How bad is the damage to the paintwork is the car still driveable at the moment? Id imagine that it could easily destroy r32 gearboxs with that much power. might need an r33 box to fix him!!!!

Your car sound fully sick mate. Why you sellin it? How bad is the damage to the paintwork is the car still driveable at the moment? Id imagine that it could easily destroy r32 gearboxs with that much power. might need an r33 box to fix him!!!!

Ive just replaced the gearbox tonight for a fresh 2nd handie, im selling it because i want something different and im about to lose my license for about 2 years for reckless driving. haha. it needs a respray as their are key marks (not very deep) in every panel, it has a standard front bar and a black front drivers guard, all the panels are ok, i will sell it with a straight bonnet.

gav

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...