Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use it on my dump pipe. Stinks for 100kms or so till it burns off the bit of oil or whatever is in it. Many people say it's a waste of time. At the end of the day... there might be better ways to heatproof stuff like hpc coating for example but if you've got it already then might as well use it. Just use hose clamps i don't think they need to be anything special although they do sell specific ones but i think that's just because they're narrower. Only thing that you could do that you wouldn't have to fix down the track.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4920264
Share on other sites

I use it on my dump pipe. Stinks for 100kms or so till it burns off the bit of oil or whatever is in it. Many people say it's a waste of time. At the end of the day... there might be better ways to heatproof stuff like hpc coating for example but if you've got it already then might as well use it. Just use hose clamps i don't think they need to be anything special although they do sell specific ones but i think that's just because they're narrower. Only thing that you could do that you wouldn't have to fix down the track.

thanks heaps bro

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4920373
Share on other sites

steel cable ties or stainless wire does the trick. using heat wrap can create hot spots in manifolds tho and with some aftermarket units using it voids the warranty. in saying that i use it on my dump pipe and hot side intercooler pipe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4920708
Share on other sites

i used it on my front/dump pipe to help keep the heat down as best i could in the engine bay, im pretty pleased with how it turned out. the hot tip is soak the heat wrap in water for a minute or 2 before you wrap ya pipe, make sure it overlaps by 1/2 or 1/3. secure it with stainless hose clamps, and ya laughing old mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4921650
Share on other sites

i used it on my front/dump pipe to help keep the heat down as best i could in the engine bay, im pretty pleased with how it turned out. the hot tip is soak the heat wrap in water for a minute or 2 before you wrap ya pipe, make sure it overlaps by 1/2 or 1/3. secure it with stainless hose clamps, and ya laughing old mate.

Soaking it in water is a BAD thing to do... Heat wrap will trap moisture and rust the pipes...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4922064
Share on other sites

The wrapping dries out with the heat of the exhaust anyway, doesnt hold any moisture that would rust the pipes.

The best thing to do is paint the piping/manifold with high temp paint to seal it, then use the wrap.

Soaking it in water makes it easier to do a good install (nice a tight with good, even coverage)

Ive heard that wrapping isnt that good to use on stainless, but i used it on my extractors (when i was NA) and never had a problem...

Im using it on my steampipe turbo manifold and considering it on the stainless dump to keep engine bay temps down - dunno about the dump being stainless tho.

+1 ceramic coating is the shit, but VERY expensive, heat wrap does wonders for engine bay temps.

Also use it on my oil return line that runs very close to the exhaust, along with hotside I/C piping...

Oh yeh and use gloves when you install this shit, or youl be picking out invisible fiberglass splinters for weeks to come...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4922612
Share on other sites

Really?

I know a lube mobile mechanic that swears by it.

Reckons thats all he/they did in europe.

I've been warned of it by a couple of workshops.

Plus, why do you need to do it, it isn't like it's stiff or anything, it's very easy to manipulate.

Oh, and the old heat wrap on the oil lines... Saves them splitting and causing fires! I have it on my return line too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4923255
Share on other sites

Ive heard that wrapping isnt that good to use on stainless, but i used it on my extractors (when i was NA) and never had a problem...

I was told by an exhaust shop not to wrap my stainless dumps as it would make them become more brittle and prone to cracking

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4923647
Share on other sites

Ceramic coating isnt as expensive as some people may think... Guy I work with just got a pretty long set of extractors done for less than $200 at HPC... We get trade price because of where we work but cant make that much difference... Definitely worth it too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4923689
Share on other sites

Its good to wrap your turbo downpipes and ex.manifold with those heat wraps.

For those who have doubts, make sure the heat wraps are soak in water for an hour

to soften the wraps. Wrap it as tight as possible to prevent future twisting and rubbing against steel surfaces/pipes.

By doing this, your pipes or welding joints wont get brittle and create cracking.

Once its soaked, wrapped and securely fasten with driveshaft ties, heat the engine up and slowly let it dry.

You will see how good it looks compared to dry wrapping. Doing it the right way will really help to cool the engine bay.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4924417
Share on other sites

as MrKotter said..

Wrapping will cause your mani/pipes to become brittle.

The wrap will keep the heat in and your mani/pipes will run hotter. This WILL lead to cracking if you have low quality parts and is only truly needed for race applications.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4930627
Share on other sites

I was told by an exhaust shop not to wrap my stainless dumps as it would make them become more brittle and prone to cracking

Pretty much heard the same, not so bad on mild steel though. But with stainless it can cause it crystalise by keeping the heat in too much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4931094
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it,  and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real
    • Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.
    • No clips on this one like the other connector. Only that red tab that I can push slightly up.
    • For any loom connector that has an obvious release that resists pushing far enough to unclip, just spray some silicone lube into it. You might also benefit from using a bent screwdriver or small pick to push in the right place at the right angle.
    • Hey all, I went to try and fix my indicator not canceling, but I couldn't remove the clockspring cable under the column so I could twist that green thin. Anyone know how to remove this cable? I see this red tab but didn't have any luck. I was thinking of unscrewing it but wasn't sure if it would cause issues. I did notice for my indicator stalk, 2 out of 3 cables were plugged in but the last cable wouldn't fit in the stalk. I'm getting it's for fog lights. It was like this when I originally pulled it off.  
×
×
  • Create New...