Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

alright guys im halfway through changin the clutch in my r32 gtst,

its pretty standard just the usual fmic, exhuast, vg30 turbo and pof filter.

i bought a second hand flywheel and had it machined so i woudlnt have to bother getting it done with the one in my car i could just swap,

however i just took the box and old clutch out and the flywheel in there is a lightened one, by that i mean it has a hole bunch of large holes drilled into it around the edge,

whats the benefits of a lighterflywheel, should i keep this flywheel (if i did i would go and get it machined of course coz its very glazed)

or should i just chuck the standard one in?

thanks

-Alex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295036-lightened-flywheel-or-not/
Share on other sites

The holes are to balance the flywheel (similar to balancing a wheel/tyre by adding wheel weights, on flywheels they subtract weight by drilling holes). It may not necessarily be lighter - you should weigh them both to check.

The advantage, I believe, is a slightly better acceleration - less mass to be made to spin. The downside can be a poor / unstable idle, due to a lack of rotating mass the help keep the engine spinning.

i was told by a gtr guru that the best flywheel is the factory one vs a/m lightened one.

get the stock one balanced and lightened (i think it drops from 12kg to 8 or 9kg) as it has a better surface and provides better grip and handles more heat than a lightened billet one.

a lighter flywheel will make the car rev quicker.. which is a good thing on the rb20... but it will affect idle a little bit... not much though.. and it will affect the cars engine braking ability and low down driveabilty as in under 2000rpm.

if youve ridden a motocross bike and a big trail bike.. you'll see the difference. motocross bikes have little to no flywheels. trail bike is happy to lumber along at low revs, and can almost come to a stop before stalling.. motocross bike will stall at the drop of a hat if you arent on the gas, but will rev like mad.

Not a fan of lightened flywheels in turbocharged vehicles. They reduce the drivability even moreso. Better off sticking with the standard part IMO, this is a better modification for N/A vehicles.

Depends how light it is compared to the factory counterpart, but with a lightened flywheel you have the abovementioned symptoms...plus:

- Need to give it more revs to get off the line due to less stable engine RPM, as per less rotating mass / stored kinetic energy (but that's getting into the science of it all!)

- Clutch will wear out faster

- Requires alot more clutch slip for a forgiving/gentle take off

can u explain how the clutch would wear out faster?

the lighter flywheel was already in the car, and i have had no troubles with the idle or taking off at the lights, no noticable revving up,

ive been getting mixed answers about whether i should keep it or not, i am leaning towards keeping it as it was already in the car so id hate to put the standard one in and find that the car doesnt go as hard as before.

cheers for the answers guys

Well if it was already in the car then how are you going to know the difference between stock and not? You'd just be used to the lightened one with no comparison.

As I said it depends how much lighter the flywheel is...you say there's holes drilled...well that doesn't remove a great deal of weight from the thing (depending on size/number of holes). Have you weighed it yet?

Lightened flywheels wear out the clutch faster because they requires more slip for the gentle starts...and contact of clutch to flywheel is in general a harsher motion.

If you've been driving with it fine then just get it machined and keep it. No point changing something that works fine. As with anything, when you start removing material from it you compromise structural integrity so it will be slightly weaker than a standard flywheel but probably not enough to concern you. Some of the drastically reduced weight flywheels are pretty dangerous (read: come flying through the floorpan). Combine it with re-using high tensile flywheel bolts and you have a recipe for a nice time bomb.

A lightened flywheel will let you put on revs quicker , so you can spool up boost more quickly , but lowers torque , so you'll find yourself changing gears more often, it actualy can improve braking as you have less inertial mass spinning around to slow down.

Extreme lightness belongs on the track (if anywhere)and is an unnecessary pita on the street ime, a modest lightening can be a nice thing on the street from say 12 to 9/10 kg but you will lose a bit of torque. Its the old no action without reaction thingo.

It realy just depends what characteristics you are happiest with in your ride.

  • 3 months later...

Stick with stock. Don't go a lightened flywheel.

I have to putter around in 4th around town. I can't comfortably cruise in 5th until im up to atleast 70km/h. I used to be able to putter along in 5th at 60km/h.

Haven't really noticed if the revs came up faster or whatever.

I have noticed on takeoff that i have to give it more revs than before or it stalls.

Edited by r33cruiser

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...