Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

Trying toi make a decision on turbs for my RB20, that will be getting dropped into my Drift project next weekend.

I have here, in my hands, a TD06 17c, with dump

or, i can get a VG30....

done a bit of research, and others have for me, and the 06 seems to be decent for the 20,

some people say better than the VG....

anyone with 06-17c on there 20 wanna shed some light?

what rpm does it see +boost? what rpm full boost? etc etc....

cheers!

craig.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295323-td06-17c-v-vg30-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

How those graphs going trent?

You wouldn;t have any graphs of a TD06SL2 20G on a 25 would you? 10cm preferably.

they dont make a 10cm version, get a T67 or td06sh-20g.

Here are the Td06-17c (external gate) results on one of our built tractor engines @ 20psi :P The 17c's are pretty old this one is getting replaced by an L2 (more mid and top end)

post-34927-1257764120_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1257764181_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS

Few quick questions about the the TD series then. (i'm going to start a tread dedicated to Mitsubishi, Greddy, Trust turbo results because i've been looking for results for ages and have found very few and if i do find any they are missing bits like what size rear housing they are using).

A T67 is basically a TD06SL2-25G isn't it, in that the turbine side is the same it just they have a the bigger 78mm compressor instead of the 20G's 68mm compressor. Therefore the turbine housings should be interchangeable, so if there is a 10cm T67 turbine housing it should fit the 20G.

Have you had anyone running a Kando Dynamic turbo yet, there are a few threads on EVO forums and they seem to be a good bit of gear and they have both 8 and 10 housings for the L2. They are copy turbos but seem to be good quality.

Edited by D_Stirls
Have you had anyone running a Kando Dynamic turbo yet, there are a few threads on EVO forums and they seem to be a good bit of gear and they have both 8 and 10 housings for the L2. They are copy turbos but seem to be good quality.

tried a few on sr's and they dont match up unfortunately, i have been using some of those turbos (direct from manufacturer) years before Kando imported them and rebadged them.

I will chase up some comparo graphs for the Kando stuff

This is one of Sam's graphs from that 4 door 32 he did the 25 conversion on.

What i was hoping the 10cm would achieve is reducing the choking of the rear in the top end and the drop in boost that it induces with the 8cm.

post-27020-1257766642_thumb.jpg

What is the name of the factory? Kinugawa Turbo Japan?

This is what i was look at for my 25 conversion (into a 180sx),

This turbo;

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

With this turbine housing;

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Edited by D_Stirls
This is one of Sam's graphs from that 4 door 32 he did the 25 conversion on.

What i was hoping the 10cm would achieve is reducing the choking of the rear in the top end and the drop in boost that it induces with the 8cm.

post-27020-1257766642_thumb.jpg

What is the name of the factory? Kinugawa Turbo Japan?

another rebrand., turbos come from taiwan.

see how much boost was run on that copy l2 graph? 24+ psi, a real l2 on a sr20 @ 22psi makes over 300rwkw (400rwhp). A td06sh25g 10cm on a rb25 @ 22psi makes 340rwkw ish.

The copies are really inefficient, 25psi to make 225rwkw (300rwhp) is nothing flash (sam is a great tuner, turbo is not so great) and is typical of the results we have found.

Edited by URAS
turbos come from taiwan.

yeah i have heard that (I'm pretty sure these do too), i think they are claiming they are made in Japan to try and better their reputation, but their products seem to be speaking for themselves.

When are you seeing full boost (22psi) with a 25G 10cm though, you'd be looking at 4200rpm+ wouldn't you?

This is why i want to start that thread, hopefully Buster and the others can post up their graphs and the spec's of the turbos so they can all be in one place.

Edited by D_Stirls
yeah i have heard that (I'm pretty sure these do too), i think they are claiming they are made in Japan to try and better their reputation, but their products seem to be speaking for themselves.

When are you seeing full boost (22psi) with a 25G 10cm though, you'd be looking at 4200rpm+ wouldn't you?

This is why i want to start that thread, hopefully Buster and the others can post up their graphs and the spec's of the turbos so they can all be in one place.

trust me they all come from the same factory, even KAZAMA (JAPAN) sell a rebranded turbo from the same taiwanese factory.

http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bbcatpar...rbocharger+Kits

Edited by URAS
  • 6 months later...

Sorry for late reply only just saw this...

I was not, and have never used a Kinugawa / Kando turbo, I have my own source outside japan for what seems to be an EXACT copy of the L2's using equal (or better) quality materials.

The reason I used so much boost was due to cam timing to maximise response.

The L2 from my 4dr was sold when the car was sold, and is still spinning quite hard.

Sam.

Few quick questions about the the TD series then. (i'm going to start a tread dedicated to Mitsubishi, Greddy, Trust turbo results because i've been looking for results for ages and have found very few and if i do find any they are missing bits like what size rear housing they are using).

A T67 is basically a TD06SL2-25G isn't it, in that the turbine side is the same it just they have a the bigger 78mm compressor instead of the 20G's 68mm compressor. Therefore the turbine housings should be interchangeable, so if there is a 10cm T67 turbine housing it should fit the 20G.

Have you had anyone running a Kando Dynamic turbo yet, there are a few threads on EVO forums and they seem to be a good bit of gear and they have both 8 and 10 housings for the L2. They are copy turbos but seem to be good quality.

T67 is the 20G with bigger compressor.

You could put a 10cm exhaust housing on the rear of the L2 or the T67.

And from what you have mentioned I do not think that the compressor housings are interchangeable between the L2 and the T67.

Keeping in mind that the 25G and the L2 are not the same turbo. :)

Sorry for late reply only just saw this...

I was not, and have never used a Kinugawa / Kando turbo, I have my own source outside japan for what seems to be an EXACT copy of the L2's using equal (or better) quality materials.

The reason I used so much boost was due to cam timing to maximise response.

The L2 from my 4dr was sold when the car was sold, and is still spinning quite hard.

Sam.

Im pretty sure we buy from the same place then :)

Used a few of their T67's and L2's and they mirror the genuine trust gear to the letter. Have made in japn on both turbo and box but i know for a fact they are from ROC as ive seen the factory. Its the same factory Kazama and others in japan are sourcing from.

No issues on reliability here yet either.

Trent - I'm pretty sure that mine are from a different place as they don't sell the T67 :) mind pm'ing me their details :cool:

Also, you mentioned the inferior performance above, was that relating to the Kando ones? Do the ones you get have the same characteristics of slightly inferior performance? I have a Genuine L2 and one of my copy ones here, and will be doing back to back in the next few weeks as you now have me curious. Pulled apart side by side I can't spot the difference even up close.

Zebra - Pm'd

i had a uber oldschool td06-19c 14cm kit on my dr30 (fj20et) evan had a sigma wastgate (prior to hks) it was ok very good punch in the face boost delivery. not much power but. it was a stock ecu.

ive got a 10 or 12cm tdo6 housing somewhere rusting away in my garage

T67 is the 20G with bigger compressor.

You could put a 10cm exhaust housing on the rear of the L2 or the T67.

And from what you have mentioned I do not think that the compressor housings are interchangeable between the L2 and the T67.

Keeping in mind that the 25G and the L2 are not the same turbo. :banana:

My understanding of the nomenclature of the Mitsubishi/Greddy/Trust is that the TD06 part of the name dictates the size of the turbine which has different trims which is dictated by the S SH H etc. The 20G side of the name dictates the compressor size. So the G determines the compressor exducer and the 20 dictates the trim of the compressor. This is clouded by the fact that there is a 16G that has a 60mm exducer and the 25G has 78mm exducer.

Is seems that if the compressor is upsized above the regular compressor size for the turboine then the nomenclature changes to the T67, T78 series names.

So the correct compressor for a TD06 is the 20G wheel, the TD07 is the 25G wheel, and when you mix and match the naming changes to T67, T78 names are used.

The L2 wheel is a variation on the TD06S wheel which has 0 less blade and is cropped.

Now this is just what i have figured by looking at the spec's and is probably completely incorrect, if it is please let me know how the nomenclature works.

Spec's Sheet;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a251041-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ...just a note of warning, you shouldn't drive it about with the TCU in limp mode with only 3rd gear available ~ apart from the fact you end up sheering the ATF at the torque converter interface, the high clutch in these isn't especially the strongest, particularly bolted to the RB25DE mill...which is likely a 4AX01 box with lighter duty high clutch (the RB25DET got the bigger high clutch)...be careful out there...
    • Hoping to do similar mods to my RB20 once I get it running and reliable again
    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
×
×
  • Create New...