Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz, im just saving up to buy a front/dump pipe and high flow cat from just jap and i just wanted to know how much would it cost to get it fitted onto my R34 at a exhaust shop. Have any of you guys fitted it yourself?

I already have an apexi cat back exhaust. I know replacing the cat is easy, but dont have any idea on fitting the front/dump pipes..

Just want to know a approx how much does labour cost to get it fitted...

Thnx...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295324-cost-of-fitting-splitdump-pipes/
Share on other sites

honestly mate, do it yourself, have a look where the dump pipe meets your turbs, that will

prob be the hardest part, gettin your hands in there, the rest is done underneath, obviously...

save some coin and give it a go,

if you do decide to go the shop route, they shouldnt charge you more than an hour, depending on your existing

joins, welds or flanges?

have a look, and give it a shot.

I don't think you can put a standard price on a job like that , there is always the risk of breaking fasteners around turbine housings and it takes time to get the remains out if they do shear off .

If they all come out "easily" and don't damage any threads , and if all the pipework fits together and seals properly you could probably budget for something up to possibly a hour and a half .

Too many ifs to work with .

A .

I don't think you can put a standard price on a job like that , there is always the risk of breaking fasteners around turbine housings and it takes time to get the remains out if they do shear off .

This is why I paid to get mine done.

It cost $110. He snapped two studs, I have little patience so it was money well spent.

Yeh if you are going to try it yourself get some spray to loosen the nuts first...

take it from a guy who went through the hell of having to take off the turbo fail with an easy out and then end up spending 8 drill bits getting it all out so a stud could get tapped in :P

it isn't easy to do without breaking nuts. most of the people on here will tell you they had to drill out at least one. still, well worth doing yourself to save some money. where abouts in melb are you? may be able to recommend a workshop - but the above price of $110 sounds like a pretty good deal. i know people that have paid $300 lol.

spray some wd40 on the threads and see if you can get the nuts off. If you can't then worst case take it to an exhaust shop and they will oxy them off.

I actually couldn't get the ones from the cat off and i went to an exhaust shop and they cut them off and just charged me for 2 bolts and i went back home and continued doing it. Really there's only like 6 on the turbo and 2 on the cat. After doing it a few times i find that easier just laying on the ground and doing them all like that. Otherwise get cut up hands etc.

All depends how much patience and time you want to spend on it.

buy some decent tools - thats my advice. 2 years into modding my skyline i ended up throwing out all of my tools and went and bought some decent equipment with handy attachments. saved me time, money (on replacing shitty tools that break) and effort.

Well, i know i will be able to change the cat myself but im unsure of wether i will be able to change the front/dump pipes as i dont wanna be doing anything close to the turbo!!

I was thinking of buying a hydraulic jack and changing the cat with the help of that jack.. Do u guyz reckon its safe with that hydraulic jack??

Get jack stands while you're at it, cos it'll protect you if the jack fails (it could happen).

They're $30 from supercheap auto or parts stores.

piece of wood under the k frame (the side jack points are shit, wood evens out the pressure), jack then stands.

soak the dump nuts and bolts on wd40 before you work on em, else they will snap. (once everything is back on you will get heaps of smoke tho from the wd40 burning off)

the bolts and nuts on my 33 are 13mm and 15 or 17 on the cat.

one of the bolts is going to be a bitch to put on the new dump as its really close to the dump housing. i worked away on it with a ring spanner.

imo, once you spend the money on the tools etc and waste time getting the car up and taking all the shiz off, $250 at a workshop is well worth it.

oh also get an oem turbo to dump gasket :)

Looking at it now, i think it would be wise to just get it done from the shop... rather than snapping a bolt and then taking the hassel to buy all the things needed for it and etc....

Dam i never knew it would be tough to even remove the bolts from the cat!!

wd40 - $5

hydraulic trolley jack 2500kg - $60 (put under front)

use your jack in the boot under the side. (you now have two jacks supporting your work area)

Borrow 3 ring spanners (13, 15 and 17) if you don't have your own set already.

$15 for the gasket maybe

I daresay that one day you will be needing to get under the car anyway so why put off buying a jack lol.

Then you can say you've done it yourself and if you have to pull the turbo off down the track you already know how to do half of it.

At the end of the day it's up to you mate:)

wd40 - $5

hydraulic trolley jack 2500kg - $60 (put under front)

use your jack in the boot under the side. (you now have two jacks supporting your work area)

Borrow 3 ring spanners (13, 15 and 17) if you don't have your own set already.

$15 for the gasket maybe

I daresay that one day you will be needing to get under the car anyway so why put off buying a jack lol.

Then you can say you've done it yourself and if you have to pull the turbo off down the track you already know how to do half of it.

At the end of the day it's up to you mate:)

I probably wouldn't recommend getting under a car with just jacks supporting it no matter how good they are. You can pick up a decent pair of car stands for about $40 and could save you from being crushed by your own car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
×
×
  • Create New...