Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a cefiro with a rb20e engine, the head gasket blew and when i pulled off the head it was in a bad state. I purchased a rb20e (carb) head and block, took off all my parts and put it on to the new head and block (converted it to fuel injected, so i used my distributor, air intake etc.) set the timing to tdc, at first it would not start so pulled of my injectors cleaned and reinstalled, it starts and idles at about 500rpm however when i put my foot on the X to rev it i get no response, it feels like its going to cut off and when i remove my foot it picks back up. any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295339-rb20e-not-reving/
Share on other sites

If it goes better when you back off from WOT then it means possibly that your AFR is out. Probably the timing as well.

You would have to assume that if you have replaced a faulty Head/Block with OK replacements,

and your bolt ons were running ok with your old Head/block prior to the faulty head problem,

then somehow your fitting of the items causes the engine to not start.

This could include the cam timing setup as well as the possibility of air leaks causing AFR problems.

1. RECHECK TIMING

2. CHECK for AIR/VACUUM LEAKS

3. CHECK FUEL DELIVERY & PRESSURE

4. CHECK SPARK

the block had rb20 as part of the engine number, the head looks like the ones that came on the rb20et. The block also looks different than mine in that it looks stronger, now in trinidad the a31 were sold new as the altima which came with rb24 single cam carb., this engine was bought from a foreign used dealer who imports used parts from japan, so i am not sure if thats how it came stock.

Probably 24 heads...and your problem, heads and block having timing trouble.

Check out what all the guys suggested, if it's still not fixed, engine swaps are f**kin easy on these things.

or even strip out the bay down to the block, and go DET heads and loom.

Sorry, I just reread the first post.

I thought you had bought a replacement head and put it on your existing block.

Just to clarify, You originally had an RB20E (fuel injected) and you bought a replacement motor which was carburettor.

Then you swapped all of your EFI stuff onto the replacement motor.

As far as I understand, RB24S and RB30S were the only carburettor RB engines. So I'm guessing that maybe you were sold an RB24S.

Although, you also said that the block has an RB20 engine number..... can you double check that?

After some searching I have found nothing relating to RB20S's. However the wiki article makes reference to a common mod being to put the a DE head on but retain the carbys for an RB24s. Perhaps you have an RB24s in disguise with an RB20DE head on top? or perhaps just an RB20e head? odd thing to get though :).

Quick edit: can't be a 20 head on a 24 because they are incompatible.

Daisu you are correct, my original engine was fuel injected, but it was hard to find a replacment one in good condition. this guy who i have bought engines in the past said he had a rb20 but with carb. and all i needed to do was use back my intake system along with the distributor. the engine was in good condition so i took it. on the block the engine number starts with RB20, i even took of the carb. myself, so it came like that from japan. now the tapit pan cover is shaped like the ones you find on the rb20ET. Based on what you guys are saying (that rb carbs mainly came on the rb24s and rb30s) so i am guessing that the person who had it in japan did a mix and match meaing put a 24 or 30 head on the rb20 block, If this was done to gain HP i don't know. I have tried to research the rb20 carb on the net but came up empty. The block is also different than my orig. one. it looks stronger, there are ribs on the side roughly where each piston chamber starts and finishes (like the rb30 block or even rb20ET) here are some pics

post-24788-1257732800_thumb.jpg

post-24788-1257732821_thumb.jpg

post-24788-1257732839_thumb.jpg

post-24788-1257732857_thumb.jpg

post-24788-1257732866_thumb.jpg

Edited by who's next

Man, please don't tell me you have a RB30 here in T'dad. I'll take it off of you!

You could have my engine for cheap and use back your old head. Only the lifters were beginning to make noise on my RB20E.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...