Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i crashed my r33 drift car. im stripping it but i have decided to keep the engine and gear box to put in a 180sx. funds are low so it wont be till mid next year before i get the new car up and running. the motor and gear box are out of the car sitting on my garage floor covered up and have been for about 3 months now. MY question is what should i do to protect the engine while it sits for so long to make sure its all good when i finally get it going again? thanx guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295354-storing-an-engine/
Share on other sites

Put the engine on an engine stand.

Leave oil in the sump. Turn it on it's side once a week to get the oil to soak up to the pistons and pins, straighten it up. Spray 2 seconds of WD40 into each spark plug hole and replace the spark plug. Rotate the engine 3 times, once a week after you have done that.

Cover up the intake pipe when done. Glad wrap and electrical tape will do. Don't shove rags in there as they tend to get forgotten about and can get sucked in later.

The WD40 will stop the rings from binding and rotating it will keep them from sitting in the one position in the bore

None of this is necessary but will ensure it stays lubed and internally rust free and smoothly operating for a long time.

Yer I don't know how you plan to do an RB25 conversion in a 180sx if you can't crank an engine over by hand...

1. Go get a nice torquey ratchet

2. Stick it on the bottom crank pulley

3. Elbow grease

Steves got a point. good way to find out the answer to a question is to ask.. The bolt through the centre of the balancer, turn that sucka. this turns the crank around which will turn everything else connected to it. Had your weetbixs?

If that were to happen, then there is another problem. There shouldn't be enough slack to do that

no not necessarily, iv seen it happen on cars that havnt even done there 100000kms timing belt change. its one of the main rules your taught when becoming a qualified mechanic. the engine is designed to turn one way, not both.

Edited by TRB-001
no not necessarily, iv seen it happen on cars that havnt even done there 100000kms timing belt change. its one of the main rules your taught when becoming a qualified mechanic. the engine is designed to turn one way, not both.

If it has slack to slip on the crank when turning anti clockwise, then what do you think happens when you turn the belt clockwise? The slack moves to the other side. Therefore, it would be far too loose.

Yes the 'engine' is designed to rotate one way but no the belt is not. The belt has a rounded tooth design and it doesn't matter which way you rotate it, it will have equal possibility of slipping either way.

Also the tension on the belt does not change, if you rotate it clockwise, the tension is on the idler side, if you rotate it anti-clockwise, the exact same tension is on the tensioner side.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...