Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What BOV are you guys running for high boost settings? eg. 1.7bar-2bar?

Currently i am having issues with my BOVs. I have a HKS SSQV which is shyt and now my Greedy Type RS is giving me issues as well..

One time the RS had its valve stuck open and HKS had always have problem with stalling.

I dont have much confidence in these 2 brands now and im worried it might destroy my compressor shaft if i continue running on those BOVs.

I am serching for something more dependable and I was wondering are Tial BOVs any good?

Another question.

Do you guys run two BOVs at the intercooler to intake or one on each side of intercooler?

What spring rates?

Comments and feedbacks are most welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295386-high-boost-blow-off-valves/
Share on other sites

While we are on the subject of BOV's I'd like to ask about location of them.

I was under the impression the best place was as close to the throttle body as possible. That way, when the throttle closes and the BOV opens the majority of the charge air continues flowing in the same direction.

The other day I was looking on the turbobygarrett website and it stated the best place for the BOV was as close to the compressor outlet as practical. To me this doesn't make sense as all the charge air in the pipes/intercooler has to reverse flow to exit the BOV.

On RB's the standard BOV is pretty close to the thottle. And from what I can recall, on SR20's the BOV is located near the throttle and the return pipe crosses back over to the other side of the engine to get back to the compressor inlet.

In both cases (and you see this alot in aftermarket piping kits) the BOV is usually located on the hot pipe, next to the compressor inlet in order to shorten the return pipe.

Edited by daisu
  • 3 months later...

digging up an old thread rather than starting a new one.

and not 'quite' the same question but here goes,

Has anyone ran GTR Bov's Pre cooler?

I've finally sourced some 33 GTR Bovs, and I was wondering if I could place them Beofre the cooler, as this will make the return to the intake a heck of a lot shorter/simpler. If I mount them in the same position as the GTR, I've got to run a 2" return pipe all the way from the cooler exit right back to the intake pipe. And the factory plastic return wont work with my custom piping/cooler setup.

I'm olny concerned as I know the GTR Bov's have the rubber/plastic seat and I'm worried about them melting due to the added heat being plumbed in pre cooler compared the the factory 'after the cooler'.

cheers

Would like some info in this.. possibly a pm to me would be real nice if you have the time?

I suspect mine is leaking.. How do you know if yours has the soft spring or the other one? how do you have it hooked up? do you have both lines connected or just the one?

ive played around with mine for ages....

I ran a Greddy type R with the soft spring at around 1.9 bar with no problems.

+3 For stock GTR BOV's

28psi and no leaks...

As for swapping from aftermarket to GTR ... Stock, the GTR BOV's are open at idle, so make shure you plumb them back before the AFM- or put filters on them for MAP sensor cars.

Melt??? I doubt it. They're so cheap to replace I wouldn't worry about it.

I think it was Nizpro that used to use them for boost controll... Good bit of kit!

Yes I know they open at idle, so yep making new intake to accommodate the return pipe.

I was only concerned they would melt as they will see heat they were never going to see mounted after the cooler. And if they did happen to fail I had visions of crap (Hard plastic) finding its way back to the intake and into my comp wheel..... I've had a look at the plastic, its looks pretty sturdy stuff tho.

I'm not expecting it to happen, I'm sure nissan built them to take 10 times the heat they were ever going to see. But it doesn't cost to ask, and maybe avoid a potential headache.

and as for cheap, not really - and thats when you can get them.

I run GTR BOV's pre-cooler.

I have a backpressure problem that i'm sorting out, we think it's due to the cooler piping bends and chamber changes made a while ago. (been tested, so its 100% something that was changed)

So they blow open over 16psi, but otherwise no issue and they will be perfectly fine pre-cooler. Just a bastard to fit them there :D

I suspected you would run them pre cooler on the 31, I think I sent you a PM but maybe it didnt send.

I think I've got it nutted out, Took me awhile tho.

I'll post up some pics once I'm done

You might well have - i've got ... to many atm.

Need to sit down for 2-3 hours and go through them all... avoiding it :D

I did have a single BOV before cooler, but now with 2x its pre-cooler. It's not very "clean", a tad messy looking but works fine.

I have a split A/C setup (factory nissan) so i couldnt put them on the drivers side unfortunately, not quite enough room otherwise post cooler they would have gone.

What BOV are you guys running for high boost settings? eg. 1.7bar-2bar?

Currently i am having issues with my BOVs. I have a HKS SSQV which is shyt and now my Greedy Type RS is giving me issues as well..

One time the RS had its valve stuck open and HKS had always have problem with stalling.

I dont have much confidence in these 2 brands now and im worried it might destroy my compressor shaft if i continue running on those BOVs.

I am serching for something more dependable and I was wondering are Tial BOVs any good?

Another question.

Do you guys run two BOVs at the intercooler to intake or one on each side of intercooler?

What spring rates?

Comments and feedbacks are most welcome.

1.8bar. bog stock 32gtr bov's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...