Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the topic states, i'm after 260rwkw out of my High-flow turbo from GCG.

At the moment I've got around 230rwkw @ 16psi

-standard injectors (maxed)

-standard AFM

-FMIC

-Turbotech Boost Controller

-Apexi Pod (enclosed w/CAI)

-Walbro in tank Fuel pump 450hp rated @ full voltage

-Turbo-back exhaust

-Re-map Tune by Toshi.

To achieve my goal i'm thinking:

-550cc Injectors.

-Fuel Pressure Regualtor

-Z32 AFM

-Apexi Power FC

-Electronic Boost controller.(GReddy Profec B)

Have I left anything out?

What are your ideas to achieve my goal.

All comments welcome.

Cheers.

RJ

Edited by R 2 THE J
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295406-want-260rwkw-out-of-my-high-flow/
Share on other sites

You don't need a FPR if you get injectors, the stock one is more than adequeate, hell ive made almost 400rwkw with the stock one.

Key is correct injectors.

All you need is the AFM, Tune, injectors and 20psi and you'll be pretty much where you want to be.

Also i'd be getting rid of the Walbro, I (like many others) have issues with them much above 200rwkw (anything other than stock turbo setups).

The highflow turbo may or may not make 260rwkw - judging by your current boost and power it will require ~20psi (which shows the turbo is perhaps too small to make 260rwkw).

Question regarding Walbro:

On the Walbro , I'm not expert at all, but are the Walbro flow problems related to voltage or the pump itself? I've seen graphs that show the Walbro is much more sensitive to voltage than other pumps. Not good at 12V, good at 13V, better at 13.5V +

I have a Walbro but only at 190rwkw - looking at 230rwkw myself soon.

Edited by simpletool

Id also like to know more about the walbro. I'm running one now at under 200rwkw and looking to go over that soonish.

Ive seen plenty of people running over 200rwkw with it, so i dunno where all of this is coming from.

Like simpletool said - as long as its getting the right voltage it should be fine i imagine?

im no expert either though.

Edited by stenve

Guys please stick on topic..

But to answer your question about the Walbro. I've had mine in for over 2 years. No problems yet. Full voltage @ 13.8v.

Problem with that is it runs 100% ALL the time, obviously reducing it's lifetime.

But I needed to make 230rwkw.

Joey, Did you just drop the Nismo fuel pump in and just connect it to the existing plug? Or did you change the voltage rating?

Also what Fuel set-up mods did you do to adapt to E85?

Thanks guys?

I'd be happy with 250rwkw, I just wanted help with directions to go.

Just drop in an 040, no need for expensive Jap stuff, Bosch is just as good and damn close to 'drop in'..

Is it a 33 Hi Flow, a 34 Hi Flow or something with a VG30 rear?

The latter 2 will come close to 260 pretty easily.

Hmmm..

I think it's a 33 Hi-flow.

not too sure.

Bought off some guy.

Didn't mention about the exhaust housing sizes?

It actually looked a bit bigger than my Standard one, so i'm guessing it's R34 or VG30?

If not, what is my max Femno?

i think the walbro conversation is on topic. because if it fails above 200rwkw like everyone says it will you'll need to consider a replacement to get to 260rwkw.

I also wouldnt want to replace a perfectly good part that will work on the advice of a couple of forum members also. I'd want some solid evidence. just a consideration for you mate.

sorry if it got too off topic for you.

most ppl on the standard r33 housings seem to get about 230-250rwkw. with a few exceptions.

for a safer bet at getting 250/260rwkw i would consider finding a larger rear housing (if yours isnt one of the larger already) ie r34, vg30 or perhaps talk to hypergear who are now manufacturing larger housings for their turbos i think.

But to answer your question about the Walbro. I've had mine in for over 2 years. No problems yet. Full voltage @ 13.8v.

Problem with that is it runs 100% ALL the time, obviously reducing it's lifetime.

You had wired the pump?

a pump that fails is fine

a pump that can't keep up is the one that makes the engine go bang

typically the walbro's expect higher voltage, when they run at 14v they dont flow as much fuel, thus the engine can lean out

this is when your engine goes bang. if the pump fails and stops flowing fuel, the engine stalls, no harm done

Interesting thread as i've also got around 230rwkw and aiming for around 250rwkw ish before xmas. Just need to put these injectors in and get it in for a tune. Pity i haven't already or i could tell you how much power i have because i have most of the mods you are considering (except i have a microtech lt16). I'm only going to have mine tuned on about 18psi though.

I wouldn't worry about the fuel pressure regulator. Only reason I got one is because i wanted to get a bit more out of the standard injectors on the initial ecu tune and make sure it was all running fine.

The nismo/tomei pumps are really good i'm very happy with that purchase and putting one in is easier than changing a wheel.

One thing i found I definitely needed (you will too) was an electronic boost controller because if you're going to be pushing the turbo up close to its limits you're not going to want the unreliability/spiking that comes with a manual boost controller and then blowing the turbo as a result.

If you want to do it on a budget:

*Power fc without hand controller 900-1000

*Z32 afm s/hand - 250

*s15 injectors (480cc drop straight in) - 400

*profec b (new on ebay) $415 or s/hand around 350

*take it in for a tune on the pfc 450-650

hope that helps.

You had wired the pump?

In regards to fuel pump flow....depends on voltage AND boost also. The more boost you run the more fuel pressure you require the lower the fuel flow rate.

see www.stealth316.com/images/flowtest-walbro.gif for example - note the 13.5V line for Walbro GSS-341 HP...is this the model you have. ~230L/hr at 20psi (+43psi base). Not high pressure model flows ~220l/h at 13.5V .........BUT 185 l/h at 12.0V

On voltage don't R32 require the wiring and R33 not so much due to higher voltage from R33 reaching the pump? That's what I read on the rewiring thread of R32.

Edited by simpletool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My understanding is that UV tends to accelerate the aging process. If the car has been garaged, then you could probably get away with extending beyond 10 years. FWIW, in 2015, I had tyres on my 180B SSS that had a 3-digit code (2 for week, 1 for decade), ending in 0, so could have been more than 30 years old, but still worked fine. I did replaced them very quickly, though, once I discovered what the code meant!
    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
×
×
  • Create New...