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wouldn't bother with coil packs till they break down nissan ones are actually better than Splitfire but there ever so dear

on the upside Members get discount upon showing you membership card to Main North Nissan no card no discount so don't even bother trying the i left it in my other car trick :P

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That is a very good combo, i am running 15psi and making 265rwkw. If you are wanting to retain more of your response i would suggest a hiflow or the 0.6 a/r for the GT3076 turbo. I am running a 0.82 a/r, a little bit laggy, but boost hits nice and hard :P .

Maybe also replace coilpacks with either Yellowjacket/Splitfire/Superspark, depends on what condition your stock ones are in.

+1 except for the coilpack advice. OEM coilpacks are well superior to those shitty aftermarket ones.

-D

wouldn't bother with coil packs till they break down nissan ones are actually better than Splitfire but there ever so dear

on the upside Members get discount upon showing you membership card to Main North Nissan no card no discount so don't even bother trying the i left it in my other car trick :P

+1 except for the coilpack advice. OEM coilpacks are well superior to those shitty aftermarket ones.

-D

I partly agree, however. For the price of the aftemarket ones compared to new OEM, the aftermarkets absolutely crap all over the 15 year old ones which give you a nice little cough and jerk at 5500rpm.

Maybe also replace coilpacks with either Yellowjacket/Splitfire/Superspark, depends on what condition your stock ones are in.

f**k. that. shit.

either brand new oem nissan if youre feeling cashed up, or do an ls1 coilpack coversion and have change from $400 (strong aussie dollar rules :P ).

i can already hear people scoffing at the idea of using chev parts on a nissan, but the reasoning is sound, theyre cheaper than oem nissan/superchina/yellowchina/splitfire by miles, have all the oe research and development behind them, and their performance will at the very least match brand new nissan coil packs, and will definitely out perform superchina/yellowchina/splitfire.

Edited by scandyflick

Not sure ifthis is a problem or not. Butthe car is idlling alot higher than normal today. Idling at just under 2k what would cause the revs to suddenly just chang over night and is it somehing I should be worried about?

Edited by HSV004
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  • 3 weeks later...

EDIT: oops, didn't read the previous few posts. Sorry to hear about the job mate. Hope it works out. The below is for later on then...

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Sorry if this is misleading info, but I do know the standard R33 S2 turbo will not handle 14psi or more for very long before the ceramic shatters. Is the turbo on a R33 s1 (ie. pre 1995/6) ceramic as well?

I wouldn't be putting a GT30 on a RB25 unless top end power is all you're interested in. I've had one on a RB25DET NEO (R34/stagea s2) and it was pretty laggy. Didn't even start boosting until 2500rpm and max boost (only 11psi due to standard injectors & AFM) was around 4000rpm. You'll still get ~3000 rpm of boost but it'll be a bit frustrating and laggy in traffic - especially in summer. (hotter air + air/con means it takes even longer to get onto boost).

If you want more instant response, use a slightly smaller turbo (eg. GT28) with steel wheels and just turn up the boost limit for the top end. GCG highflows are a popular unit...they basically highflow the stock turbo and replace the internal wheels with steel ones.

How much boost depends on what your mods can handle. A good turbo with steel wheels will be ok for 18-20psi no worries, but in order to handle this you need some way of tuning Air/Fuel Ratios (AFR's) and also your fuel pump & injectors need to be able to supply the required amount of fuel for the increased airflow. The engine internals should be good for a lot more power than stock. These engines have been over-engineered to handle almost double the power they come with.

There's no rocket science - its basically just a matter of using the turbo to pump more air in and making sure it can match it with fuel. A good ecu will make sure its doing this efficiently so you dont spend more than is necessary at the bowser.

With what you've got already, I'd be looking at ecu, then turbo & injectors (+ AFM?) and up the boost to 14-16psi. Enjoy it :)

Edited by pixel8r

Dont know who tuned your gt30 turbo but mine is the bee's knee's 3076 high flow from ATS

To my knowledge s1 and s2 turbo's are the same i ran mine at about 14 every day for over a year and ceramic didn't shatter

Edit i also wouldn't bother with a gt28 as it wouldn't flow much more than 300hp there only so good as twins on a gtr

Dont know who tuned your gt30 turbo but mine is the bee's knee's 3076 high flow from ATS

Maybe its different on a skyline - mine was also from ATS but on a stagea (200kg extra weight). Shouldn't affect the revs where boost comes in though...only how long it takes to get there. But like I said, it wasn't undriveable. Most of the time it was quite good, but off the line the lag was noticeable. Cruising around it would sit near 2000rpm so on a stock turbo it means you're on boost as soon as you touch the accelerator, but with the GT30 it took just a fraction longer.

It would've improved with better tuning, but I had already spent upwards of $5K (including exhaust, boost controller, piggyback ecu, shift kit) at this point and didn't have the money to continue...hence the car was sold...

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