Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to begin i have a r3 s2 (auto, 103000k on the spedo)

the problem is when it have the car in gear and come to a corner with the brakes on the cars starts to run rough (close to stalling). I have taken it to a couple of the local mechanics to get it solved but with no luck. (live in a small country town not much here)

The car has been serviced every 5000k,

list of parts that have been changed so far are

O2 sensor

fuel filter

spark plugs

coil packs

afm

fuel pump (bosch 040)

Auto was serviced at 100000k

timing belt (gates)

tensioners

all fan belts

as you can see it is starting to become a bit of a spend on all these parts

If anyone has any possible ideas it would really help out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295542-need-help/
Share on other sites

took the car to the local nissan shop today, They had told me last week that they could look at the car and see what the problem might be. Guess what. They refused to look at the car at all and said i would be on my own in fixing this problem. His reason was that he was worried that they would not be able to find out what it might be and that they were happy to take my money and not fix it. (they have seen the car before, he nows what it is and has ordered parts for it before) Dumb shits.

anyone please,

can you help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295542-need-help/#findComment-4931144
Share on other sites

check the basics?

when did the problem occur?

whats changed since it started happening?

assume stock bov and intake setup? confirm? yes/no

assume standard boost? confirm yes/no

have you tried ECU reset?

have you checked idle RPM (sticker on bonnet identifies target idle RPM)

have you checked timing with timing light

the common basics will likely resolve this issue

it sounds like its stalling may even be auto box related

has that been checked since the auto box service?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295542-need-help/#findComment-4931255
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
    • That's sick, thanks for that, mine has much the same mods on a 400R. I just don't have the heat exchanger yet.   Might be worth a trip down the M1 to Syndey for a tune.
    • Mate , this is the current mods list Current Mods list (Installed) RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes ECUTEK tune form TuneHouse in Sydney .(Just over 2k) The car came with HKS - Power Editor but I had it removed for the full tune. I would say if you are using the car for street diving a proper tune would be better.    
×
×
  • Create New...