Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys Im a green P plater. I just got few questions to ask and some opinions.

Is it worth getting a R34 25GT for around $12-$15k while thats the only car can be driven by P platers cuz its 114Kw

However I the R34 GT-T cost $15k but its not allowed for P platers to drive. Tell me your opinions which one should I get?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295580-getting-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

on P's pretty damn straight forward! non-turbo for p's.

thats the law, end of the day, do what you want, just dont come back with another thread saying ' im on my p's and got done for driving a turbo skyline... help?'

read the Vicroads law's, P plater rules, and work it out from there.

it depends how much you like skylines. when i was on my p's i had a N/A r34 then when i got off my p's i sold it and bought a r34 gtt, that im thinking of selling now lol.

lol i love skylines...I was thinking bout Andrews suggestion...get a cheap car for 3 years. Sell it off and get myself a GT-T , cant afford GT-R yet. Bloody $40-50k mate

you wont want an NA skyline, go for an NA s13 manual with an SR engine: 105kw and around 1100-1200kgs. plus, far cheaper thus you can save up for a skyline when off your p's. maybe get a R32 GTR.

Edited by Peter89

Read this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Qu...ct-t294268.html

Topics like this have been covered so many times.....

Also read this one - Got Done For Turbo:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu....html&st=20

Hey Mate,

At the end of the day it all comes down to how long you will be stuck on your P's for.... if you JUST got on your Green's you will have to wait 2 years to drive a turbo.. no point buying a turbo

In my opinion... dont even buy a NA skyline.... get a bomb to run you around like a corolla,swift? Then save save save and buy your turbo skyline when you are on your full's

As mentioned above, its best to just buy a cheap daily driver (corolla, civic etc) and wait until you are off your Ps.

That way you will save more money by the time you are off Your Ps and buy the skyline/GTR you want (trust me i did the extact same thing). Not to mention how much you'll save on insurance :(

As above.

I drove an N16 pulsar for 3 years because even with power to weight on my side i couldnt get a Skyline. I had the option of borrowing and buying an S15 Silvia Spec R (turbo). Chose to wait with my old girl till i was 21 cuz id only end up buying a Skyline instead.

Couple months after i got my full licence i bought my first Skyline - my GTR :D

R34 GT-V IMO... pretty sure it is pretty much the same to a GT-T, minus the turbo... so even if you spend money on suspension, exterior/interior etc, once off your p's, make it turbo with the turbo brakes/stud already there

what about this guys? Good idea?

http://www.discountusedcars.com.au/used-ca...ne/7385455.aspx

Edited by Skyl1neZ
Is it worth getting a R34 25GT for around $12-$15k while thats the only car can be driven by P platers cuz its 114Kw

The R34 25GT is 147kw not 114kw as it has the 2.5l

The R34 GT has the 2.0l which is 114kw and cannot be imported into australia due to power to weight rules.

  • 3 weeks later...

To be honest, i don't know too much about how it works.

All i know is that cars which get imported into Australia need to have a minimum power to weight ratio to be eligible for importation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
    • I promise there will be no chance of replacing the rad support....  It is barely twisted and it's way more likely to just be driven around with a slightly twisty support. As long as the headlight can be bolted in there then no harm no foul lol. The reo may need to be un-bent a little but truth be told if it all somewhat lines up and is hidden when the car is assembled the level of f**ks will be 0.0 
    • this thread delivers, once again Skyline owners, our cars spend more time off the road than on the road  
×
×
  • Create New...