Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This isn't really quite the right forum for this question.

Pictured is the bottom (sump removed) of an N1 block with R34 crank, when last in motion, it had no oil pressure.

how it got that way is an interesting story I can type if anyone is curious. I've posted months ago on it, but basically

it involved getting ones timing belt changed at a "tuning shop" in sydney.

My questions are the following..

* see the shiny triangles ground off the crank, what are they?

* see the oil pump cog, and snout? the snout is damaged and there is molten and solidified metal blobs in the area. The stock damper has a crack in its inner most sleeve as well, I believe that perhaps this whole thing will be difficult to remove (I'd like to look inside this pump to see the undoubtedly fractured gear) How do I remove it?

* the bores are perfect, the piston tops perfect, where will I see bearing damage (for my own curiosity)? or where to look for any other damage? remove any pair of bolts pictured and look at the crank or the bearing sleeves?

* how do you turn the crank when the block is like this on a stand or whatever

* how do I keep this in good shape if I want to wait a while. do I clean off the oil and dry out the water jacket somehow?

I said they were basic questions!

ultimately I'd be sending this away to get refreshed, but I'm kind of interested in doing some of it myself.

Anyone got a brief description of what I would do?

for example: remove oil pump and free up crank, remove crank and send it away to get checked or re-machined, Buy new pump & bearings, and re-assemble and torque the bolts correctly and with the correct tools.

post-51561-1257819164_thumb.jpg

post-51561-1257819177_thumb.jpg

post-51561-1257819193_thumb.jpg

the triangles you mention inthe first picture have been machined, either for clearance or balancing reasons

the 2nd and 3rd picture shows the snout has been chewed up, repair to cost of a new/2nd hand crank, well id sugest to buy a new or 2nd hand crank

turn while on engine stand use a socket (usually 27mm) on the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer onto the snout, only turn clockwise

crank is throw away. Look for a replacement but in all honesty i have bought 6 2nd cRB26 ranks over the years and all but 2 were no good.

Edited by URAS
  • 5 weeks later...

do not clean off oil if u plan on storing it for awhile. oil will prevent corrosion.

crank is rooted, get another one

take off the two nuts at the end of each conrod, pull the cap off and look at the bearings. make sure u dont mix up nuts or the conrod caps between one another. and note the way they come off becoz they only go back on one way.

im guessing they didnt do a good job with the timing belt. what workshop was it?>

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...