Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, I'm new here, having been browsing for a while and thought I would post this up to help anyone else looking to buy a 180sx. Not sure if im allowed to post photos of the actual car or not for privacy reasons, can anyone let me know before I do so and I'll put some shots up of the undercarriage etc.

I've been keen on one particular car, its a 95 180sx, just had it checked over by State Roads cause it seemed quite good after myself and a friend had a bit of a look over it. I've attached the report if you would like to have a read through, seems to have had panel repairs which I assume is only cosmetic. BUT, has some rust on the undercarriage, exhaust looks like a bit of a worry, not sure whether these could be sanded down, welded or what. Other than that, common oil leaks for its age and worn bushes which could be expensive, not sure. He wants 8k for it, I wanted a fairly stock 180 as I want to work on it, only thing done to this is the exhaust... I personally don't think its worth 8, maybe 7-7.5 after repairs. As far as I know you can't replace the steering wheel on these as of 1995 as they have drivers side airbag, correct?

Darren

SR.pdf

Edited by liquidx
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295887-state-roads-180sx-check-thoughts/
Share on other sites

honestly seems like it isnt taken care of to much, if the owner was fussy wouldve cleaned up all the oil leaks and that himself

rust is always bad in cars, needs to be fixed for rwc and it shouldve been fixed when the panel work had been done previously

so sounds like it hasnt been taken care of to well, but thats jsut my opinion.

Maybe look for a car that costs a bit more, but is in much better condition

the car is a shitbox. not only has it been painted, but has according to the tester, bog on pretty much every panel. oil leaks, rust etc.

i had my first r33 tested by stateroads, and i know how pedantic they are when they check. i looked at 6 before i found the one i bought.

shop around mate, take your time and find something decent.

thumbs down on this 180 :)

^^ I think it cost about $200 - $500, I can't remember exactly how much... ($200 rings a bell...)

Saves you buying a shit car and keep dumping cash into it to get it fixed.

But how many times can you keep forking out couple of hundreds of dollars to keep inspecting cars until you find a good one...

My friend used State Roads to check up on a Nissan El Grand up in Syd while he is in Melb.

It looked good on the outside but after the report it was above pass... 60%

So yes State Roads is worth it.

Saves you buying a shit car and keep dumping cash into it to get it fixed.

...snip

So yes State Roads is worth it.

Be careful though, I had State Roads inspect my car and give it an absolutely stunning report, enough so I bought the car.

It'll be a few thousand dollars and a couple of months @ RE Customs and Status until this thing is what was actually advertised. :P

So I personally would use them again; but then I'd take the car to a well known, reputable workshop to check it, again to be 100% sure.

Be careful though, I had State Roads inspect my car and give it an absolutely stunning report, enough so I bought the car.

It'll be a few thousand dollars and a couple of months @ RE Customs and Status until this thing is what was actually advertised. :P

So I personally would use them again; but then I'd take the car to a well known, reputable workshop to check it, again to be 100% sure.

So what happened?

State Roads gave a great report, you bought the car, found out that it needed work?

...

Fcuk!

I would have went nuts!

All is fixed now, I hope...

Nope. :P

However they werent too far off the mark, I dont blame State Roads, all I am saying is that if they check out the car, and their review is positive (infact on mine it was 100% positive, there was literally nothing wrong with the vehicle) it is still very worth taking the car to a shop that specializes in the specific nuances that that car may or may not have.

My issues werent that the car was full of rust when they said it wasnt, or is about to fall apart when they gave it a clean bill of health, my issues are more "skyline modification" specific which they didnt pick up, nor did I expect them to - Hence my comment that they are infact very thorough, but to get it checked by a specialist/known tuner in addition if they give you a clean bill of health.

Or I could have been very unlucky - I would still recommend their services in any case.

those reports aint worth shit, pics tell the story a million times better.

I used to similar reports for another company and you have to pick the shit out of a car, we could make anyone's car not matter how good look shit on the report...

The reports were fully detailed and at least gave you a good grounding for where the car was at as an initial inspection.

I could tell him over the phone what it meant (he knows very little about cars), and where to take it from there.

Pictures most certainly do not tell the full story, they are no better/worse than a written report IMO.

I could bring a car to you or Racepace for example, however the car is in Tullamarine, and there is no workshop I'd trust out there.

So hence it can be a very expensive trip, bordering on impossible to organise.

At least with State Roads you get an idea/feel for the car if you look at the report objectively and just the facts.

You might see that the body work is a bit rough and perhaps you need to take it to a panel shop.

You could see that there are some possible mechanical problems which means going to a more specific skyline/performance shop.

See what im getting at here? :down:

As far as initial onsite/base level inspection goes, I think they cannot be beaten.

Yes you can write up any car to look good/bad whatever, and that can come down to the person doing the inspection, however overall there is exceptional merit there.

Kinkstaah - unfortunately as per the above, I don't really agree with some of the things you've said either as you expected more from the report that you were ever going to get. If you wanted specific performance/skyline information/checking, then you should have had the car taken to such a place.

State Roads should only be used as a "tier 1" inspection. If you are really keen and the car is not standard, then a "tier 2" inspection might be required in addition to initial checks (panel shop, performance shop etc etc).

Kinkstaah - unfortunately as per the above, I don't really agree with some of the things you've said either as you expected more from the report that you were ever going to get. If you wanted specific performance/skyline information/checking, then you should have had the car taken to such a place.

State Roads should only be used as a "tier 1" inspection. If you are really keen and the car is not standard, then a "tier 2" inspection might be required in addition to initial checks (panel shop, performance shop etc etc).

This is exactly what I was saying - Just forwarning that its best to get that "Tier2" inspection done. In my case my "Tier2" inspection WAS done, but it was done by a notorious liar who-shall-not-be-named-on-forums. (but didnt know at the time)

In my example.. after I found out my "Tier2" was completely dishonest, I took it to Tier3, who coincidentally.. is Trent @ Status tuning who posted a few posts above, and gave it a good ol WTF, and it's now at RE Customs WTF'ing Ray @ Co down there, and has been for about 6 weeks now :thumbsup:

Point being though, don't take it as a be-all, end all report of EVERY possible vehicle fault, as Mr Nismoid said and I (attempted) to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
    • No, with a twin plate clutch flywheels and clutch pressure plate/friction disks go together. Only clutch where that isn't the case is the Uniclutch but they currently don't make a pull version for the Getrag R34, just some other cars. Personally the flywheel is as light as I'd want it to be. It already drops revs faster than I want to shift normally and I blip the throttle again to rev match on upshifts.
    • Are there any other lighter flywheels that can be used with nismo coppermix twinplate system? Id like to gave the revs pick up faster than oem
×
×
  • Create New...