Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i decided to do repairs my self after and L plater reversed into me , now all the structural repairs went well , although 4 days ago i just finished respraying my bonnet and front bar . after the cut back and buff it was looking awesome and i was pretty suprised with the quality for a home job . now today i went off to the beach and my car was parked in the sun for possibly 2 hrs , as i came back i noticed instead of the smooth finished bonnet i had , there was a texture to it ?..... i was pretty pissed off thinkin where did i go wrong . i mean i know if you leave something freshly painted in the sun this can happen as iv come across when i have painted other things with acrylic in the past .

now does any one know why this has happened?.. or whats the recomendation in order to fix this??... should i just sand the clear coat back and then give it a few more coats? i mean im sure i gave the bonnet ample time to dry etc...any help or info would be much appreciated.

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296034-painting-my-car-with-acrylic/
Share on other sites

i was kind of thinking just using acylic base , and using 2 pak clear . end up going with the easier option . hmmm maybe ill have to do that.

2K clear will peel off after a few months, use acyl. clear 7-8 medium coats dont let the coats fully dry when spraying the next coat....... make sure coats arent dry sprayed (hard to get runs on acrylic unless you bomb it on)........ once finish empty out spraygun do not rinse fill up with thinners and spray 3 more coats( carefull thinners will run if sprayed medium/think).... let sit under sun after cutback 1500 wet.... buff 3 times 1 pure cut n polish 2 wet cut polish 3 water only possible cream polish...make sure pad is always clean or will not work.... if u have babypowder last buff(4) with that for a show finish..... wash soapy water, dry let sit under sun 1 day then wax or paint will not be protected......

Thats how we do showcar finishes.... just let everyone know the secrets..... spraypainters will hate me

What do you mean by a 'texture' on the bonnet? Was it crazing? Small cracks? Dull and chalky?

Each one could mean a different thing.

btw, don't wax it after one day only as per the advice in the post above, acrylic paint that hasn't been cured in a booth can take up to six weeks (less in this weather though) to let all of the solvent properly disperse, and waxing too early will trap the solvents in the paint and turn it soft and slightly dull.

2K clear will peel off after a few months, use acyl. clear 7-8 medium coats dont let the coats fully dry when spraying the next coat....... make sure coats arent dry sprayed (hard to get runs on acrylic unless you bomb it on)........ once finish empty out spraygun do not rinse fill up with thinners and spray 3 more coats( carefull thinners will run if sprayed medium/think).... let sit under sun after cutback 1500 wet.... buff 3 times 1 pure cut n polish 2 wet cut polish 3 water only possible cream polish...make sure pad is always clean or will not work.... if u have babypowder last buff(4) with that for a show finish..... wash soapy water, dry let sit under sun 1 day then wax or paint will not be protected......

Thats how we do showcar finishes.... just let everyone know the secrets..... spraypainters will hate me

How strong was the paint when using acrylic clear? We did a car in acrylic then a month or so later we hit it with 2pac clear and has been strong for 3 years also know of a show valiant done this way and has won a few trophies at local shows.

.

thats right max, wax after a few weeks.... my mistake

as for 2k clear over acrylic. I have tried it many times never worked, clear always peels off or cracks. But however ever I use cheap no brand name acrylic and use ppg 2k high solids clear, so that may result in the peeling of the clear, could it?, I have let it wait over the weeks still the same.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...