Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Just completed an engine conversion on a RWD cedric using a 4WD Cedric RB25DET half cut.

I've converted the transmission to RWD by pulling the front driveshaft and blocking up the high pressure line that would normally run to the actuators above the diff. As the half cut did not come with any actuators, ecu, rear end wiring loom or the res for the atessa system, i would have thought the ECU should cope with out it. Now the ABS light is on constantly.

Does anyone know what needs to be shorted/looped or removed in order to have ABS working but ATESSA not? Keep in mind that the original body loom has remained intact and only the engine harness has been replaced.

Another issue is that I have wired up the automatic plugs to the appropriate wires in the vehicle loom according to the half cuts loom. The POWER mode light now flashes occasionally.

The auto box changes from Park - Reverse - Neutral - Drive and all the lights work on the dash, but it does not change gear at all. Put it in Drive and it will act like its stuck in one gear.

Any help would be appreciated. Apart from these 2 issues my conversion is complete and im very happy with its progress.

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296244-removed-atessa-system-abs-light-on/
Share on other sites

the abs ecu is the attessa ecu aswell...

the solution is in the plug, it has a stitch in it that is closed when unplugged.

so your original car had abs? im not familiar with the cedric and how it is wired..

yes my original car had ABS and all the chassis and ABS loom has not changed. I have simply added the engine, transmission, ECU and loom and adapted the 2 automatic plugs into the chassis loom for the automatic to work properly. The cedric has a VDU like the Series 2 stagea's so when it powers up, the ABS error comes up on the screen as well as the light on the dash.

If the ATESSA ECU is the ABS ECU and i am missing the ATESSA ECU, maybe ABS is actually working but the ATESSA is obviously not causing the error to come up on the screen.

Strange issue and i think i might be the 1st to ever encounter it. ;)

Edited by sbyder
  • 3 weeks later...

Abs ecu will need signals from engine ecu - tacho & speed.

Engine loom should have wires spliced already if abs was fitted in half cut.

Simply match up wires to body loom.

Abs relays (above abs pump) also play up esp if playing in that area.

Also check LH front abs sensor is plugged in - sometimes wires run in engine loom.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...